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Unread 06-26-2015, 06:19 PM   #41
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Default Re: Possible MCOR issues, replace or fix?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sergio View Post
As a matter of fact I do

To properly test the throttle signal, the system needs to be connected as the impedance of the throttle input pin interacts with the MCOR.

The FNR needs to be in Forward for the Controller to be activated due to the microswitch in the FNR.

Unfortunately, Series motors have no speed regulation and if you run them at Wide Open Throttle (WOT), with the wheels OFF the ground, they will self destruct.

Here is an idea to test the system in place:
Rear wheels OFF the ground (again just in case)
Key Switch ON
FNR in Neutral
Put a jumper between Controller #1 terminal (red wire) and Pack positive (by-passes the microswitch).
Set your meter for 20vDC scale
Using a back probe (like a Hat Pin) or just pull the connector on Terminal #3 (yellow wire) slightly off the terminal so You can measure the voltage while it is still connected.

Measure the voltage between Terminal #3 (yellow wire) and B- as You slowly press the pedal.

The voltage should go up smoothly from 0v to close to 5v when the pedal is all the way down.
I did this twice, both times went smoothly from 0v up to 4.76v.
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Unread 06-27-2015, 10:06 AM   #42
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Default Re: Possible MCOR issues, replace or fix?

That voltage would be enough for the Curtis controller to output 100% power.

I am not sure what is the minimum throttle voltage for the GE controller to output 100%, perhaps scottyb knows that?

The good news is that Club Car reworked the Mcor4 resistance and it works better with aftermarket controllers now.

If you are curious, set your voltmeter at the 200vDC scale and with the same setup as before and with the pedal all the way down:


Measure the voltage at the controller B+ to B- (the input power)

Measure the voltage at the controller B+ to M- (the output power)

Those 2 voltage readings should be pretty close if the controller is outputting 100%.
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Unread 06-27-2015, 10:42 AM   #43
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Default Re: Possible MCOR issues, replace or fix?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sergio View Post
That voltage would be enough for the Curtis controller to output 100% power.

I am not sure what is the minimum throttle voltage for the GE controller to output 100%, perhaps scottyb knows that?

The good news is that Club Car reworked the Mcor4 resistance and it works better with aftermarket controllers now.

If you are curious, set your voltmeter at the 200vDC scale and with the same setup as before and with the pedal all the way down:


Measure the voltage at the controller B+ to B- (the input power)

Measure the voltage at the controller B+ to M- (the output power)

Those 2 voltage readings should be pretty close if the controller is outputting 100%.
So jumper between #1 and pack +, then test b+ to b- and b+to m-. Cart in neutral.

That would test the output of controller, and make sure putting out what it's supposed to.
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Unread 06-27-2015, 11:26 AM   #44
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Default Re: Possible MCOR issues, replace or fix?

That is it.
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Unread 06-29-2015, 08:31 PM   #45
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Default Re: Possible MCOR issues, replace or fix?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sergio View Post
That voltage would be enough for the Curtis controller to output 100% power.

I am not sure what is the minimum throttle voltage for the GE controller to output 100%, perhaps scottyb knows that?

The good news is that Club Car reworked the Mcor4 resistance and it works better with aftermarket controllers now.

If you are curious, set your voltmeter at the 200vDC scale and with the same setup as before and with the pedal all the way down:


Measure the voltage at the controller B+ to B- (the input power)

Measure the voltage at the controller B+ to M- (the output power)

Those 2 voltage readings should be pretty close if the controller is outputting 100%.
Well, MCOR4 was at my house when I came home today (thanks TD), installed it. Took cart out for a spin, no difference in speed up the hill, exactly the same. Set up the above test, and the readings were as follows:

B+ to B-: pedal up was 32v, depressed pedal, dropped to 28.9ish, then went back up to around 32.3v

B+ to M-: pedal up was 0v, depressed pedal, went to 32.2v then dropped to 28.9, then went back up to 32.3v.

What should I be expecting? Is this weird? Any other things to try?
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Unread 06-29-2015, 11:42 PM   #46
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Default Re: Possible MCOR issues, replace or fix?

I'm glad you received it and got it installed. I wish that would have fixed your issue though. If you keep dealing with Sergio, you'll find the problem.
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Unread 06-30-2015, 08:50 AM   #47
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Default Re: Possible MCOR issues, replace or fix?

It looks like the controller is passing 100% of whatever voltage is in the input.

The difference between the pack voltage and what you are reading is the Current used by the controller logic causing a voltage drop across the pre-charge resistor.

If you leave the terminal #1 connected and apply the +48V jumper directly to the solenoid small post that terminal is connected to, the solenoid will engage and you should have pack voltage at the controller B+ to B-.

The next step will be to attach leads to the controller B+ and B- and measure the voltage as you are going up the hill.
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Unread 06-30-2015, 07:17 PM   #48
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Default Re: Possible MCOR issues, replace or fix?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sergio View Post
It looks like the controller is passing 100% of whatever voltage is in the input.

The difference between the pack voltage and what you are reading is the Current used by the controller logic causing a voltage drop across the pre-charge resistor.

If you leave the terminal #1 connected and apply the +48V jumper directly to the solenoid small post that terminal is connected to, the solenoid will engage and you should have pack voltage at the controller B+ to B-.

The next step will be to attach leads to the controller B+ and B- and measure the voltage as you are going up the hill.
Testing between B+ and B- going uphill. Pedal up, sits around 31v. Push pedal to floor, going uphill, stays around 48.3v (floating between 48.2-48.4).

Last edited by brewginger2.5; 06-30-2015 at 07:30 PM.. Reason: clarification
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Unread 07-01-2015, 10:00 AM   #49
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Default Re: Possible MCOR issues, replace or fix?

That is a very small voltage drop for a cart under load.

Make sure the controller is not under "Current Limit", the "CL" set screw (closest to the controller terminals) is all the way on a clock-wise position.

You can also put the probes on the controller B+ to M- and make sure you are getting a similar voltage, if it is much lower, the controller is limiting the current.

The next step would be to verify the Motor is actually seeing that same voltage and You are not having a voltage drop on a cable, connection or FNR.

You need to move the probes to the 2 motor terminals connected to B+ and M-.

On a stock club car in forward, it should be A1 to S1.

If you are getting that same voltage there, maybe that is all the torque your series motor can do at that RPM.
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Unread 07-01-2015, 10:08 AM   #50
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Default Re: Possible MCOR issues, replace or fix?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sergio View Post
That is a very small voltage drop for a cart under load.

Make sure the controller is not under "Current Limit", the "CL" set screw (closest to the controller terminals) is all the way on a clock-wise position.

You can also put the probes on the controller B+ to M- and make sure you are getting a similar voltage, if it is much lower, the controller is limiting the current.

The next step would be to verify the Motor is actually seeing that same voltage and You are not having a voltage drop on a cable, connection or FNR.

You need to move the probes to the 2 motor terminals connected to B+ and M-.

On a stock club car in forward, it should be A1 to S1.

If you are getting that same voltage there, maybe that is all the torque your series motor can do at that RPM.
I put the "cl" all the way counter-clockwise, per the controller sheet that Robbie at PQ gave me. Could he have given me sheet for wrong controller (we didn't have controller in front of us at the time, and I didn't know model)? The model number was listed in an earlier post in this thread, do you know where I can get spec sheet for my controller?
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