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Unread 07-08-2015, 10:11 PM   #1
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Default 96 regen 1 club car controler problems

my 96 club car quit working. took to mechanic and discovered controller was bad. did conversion and started working again, for about an hour then fried new controller. why would this happen? cart is immaculate with many upgrades lift, wheels, back seat new batteries, so don't want to scrap it. what would it take to gut it and make it a dependable ride? or what could be causing it to break down? I know the regen 1 carts are not a good mix with lift and bigger tires but wouldn't doing the conversion fix that? what else could be causing the controller to **** to bed?
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Unread 07-09-2015, 01:03 AM   #2
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Default Re: 96 regen 1 club car controler problems

What did you convert it to? A Regen 2 I presume? Was it a factory conversion kit?
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Unread 07-09-2015, 08:35 AM   #3
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Default Re: 96 regen 1 club car controler problems

I cant remember the name of it, he told me and it was a company that I seen on here before for making fixes for these carts. I think it just involved a plug in adapter and the new controller (higher voltage). was not club car
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Unread 07-09-2015, 10:56 AM   #4
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Default Re: 96 regen 1 club car controler problems

FSIP perhaps?
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Unread 07-09-2015, 11:50 AM   #5
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Default Re: 96 regen 1 club car controler problems

No, wasn't that one. Looked at them they were little more pricey. May gut it and turn in to IQ drive.
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Unread 07-09-2015, 11:54 AM   #6
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Default Re: 96 regen 1 club car controler problems

Quote:
I think it just involved a plug in adapter and the new controller
If there is a short adapter cable/connector and a dull grey controller - then it was likely a (GE branded I think) replacement controller for Regen 1 - which kinda makes it a Regen 1-1/2 (Regen 2 has a run/tow switch - Regen 1 does not).

Its not a higher voltage controller, but it is higher amperage. Looks like this?
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File Type: jpg regen-1-replace.jpg (1.6 KB, 0 views)
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Unread 07-09-2015, 12:43 PM   #7
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Default Re: 96 regen 1 club car controler problems

yea I meant amp. there was no run tow switch. I'm really leaning toward the whole swap now and be done with it. how much you think I'm looking at to do that? (IQ drive) like mid 2000 models
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Unread 07-09-2015, 01:42 PM   #8
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Default Re: 96 regen 1 club car controler problems

Quote:
how much you think I'm looking at to do that?
I'd be interested in that answer too - namely the cost to swap to IQ system (I have a running Regen 1 currently, but would like to be prepared for the day it stops). There may be some compatibility issues that only folks like Tahoe and Sergio can really answer.

For starters I know we'd need a complete wiring harness (plus the run/tow switch) as well as an IQ controller. But here's a couple things I can't answer:

1) Is our current working POT BOX compatible with an IQ controller?...maybe not a really big deal because the MCOR 4 conversion kit is now available.

2) Here's the biggie - is a REGEN 1 motor (with its old fashioned magnet/speed sensor) compatible with the IQ controller? Pretty sure its not plug-compatible - but how about "signal-compatible" if the plug were changed.

I've heard that people have (or can) change Regen-2 to IQ - but don't recall seeing a Regen-1 to IQ discussion with actual issues/parts/details.
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Unread 07-09-2015, 02:27 PM   #9
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Default Re: 96 regen 1 club car controler problems

Since the regen I cart is without the run/tow switch is it also lacking the motor pigtail wires? I doubt this is going to be compatible with a true sepex control. Any version MCOR will be okay so long as it is putting out a consistent signal.
I'm currently converting a year 2000 series cart to IQ using D&D 506 motor, Alltrax XCT400 control, and complete wire harnesses,R/T switch, and F&R rocker with David's help. I imagine you are in for the same process.
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Unread 07-09-2015, 03:33 PM   #10
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Default Re: 96 regen 1 club car controler problems

Looking at the diagrams, the Regen 1 and 2 speed sensor used the same 3-pin Deutsch connector with the wires on the same locations as the later IQ carts.

The early Regens powered the sensor with 5v and the IQ uses 15v, but is the the same Hall effect sensor and either voltage is within the Hall effect operating specs.

The main issue is if the sensor assembly is bad, You will likely need to solder a new Hall effect sensor since I don't think they are still available for sale.
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