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Unread 07-12-2015, 06:16 PM   #1
Not Yet Wild
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
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Default 1984 with coils

Bought this cart last week, guy said "just needs new batteries to run",, NOT. Anyone have a diagram with voltages. I found the correct diagram, but have no idea what the volts should be in all areas. Have pack volts to start. I hear five very faint clicks from the box with the micros,, no solenoid clicks at all. I swapped #1 with # 4 solenoid to see if i got a change, Same.. FnR micro works, have not checked for pack volts as yet, wanted to get some help here before i got out of wack..I would appreciate any help, I read these were simple carts. Not simple enough it seems.. Thanks in advance for any help..
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Unread 07-13-2015, 02:55 PM   #2
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Default Re: 1984 with coils

Nobody's seen this??
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Unread 07-13-2015, 04:31 PM   #3
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Default Re: 1984 with coils

Quote:
have not checked for pack volts as yet
This is job #1 - battery by battery - everything afterward depends on it.
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Unread 07-13-2015, 05:01 PM   #4
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Default Re: 1984 with coils

Batteries are new,,thanks for the reply
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Unread 07-13-2015, 07:50 PM   #5
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Default Re: 1984 with coils

OK - I have no experience with resistor carts - but I'll take a shot. Download your wiring diagram from HERE. Pick the clearest copy (if there is more than one which matches your cart) and print it for your reference. Examine all the coils to make sure they don't have "invisible" breaks, bad connections or have rusted thru. Same thing goes for all coil connections.

Put cart on jack stands. Looks to me like everything depends on those micro switches functioning - and the main solenoid clicking first before all else. With the key on (and cart jacked up), put a meter on the small posts of each solenoid - first click (I think) is the driver side main solenoid - the others should follow in sequence click by click until all solenoids are latched and show voltage. You should see pack voltage on the small posts of that first solenoid and each thereafter. I'm guessing you won't, and that one or more micro switches (inside the "box") have failed or have bad connections (despite audible clicking). About the only other cause of no solenoid clicking besides those micro switches, would be a bad key switch.

All of this assumes your cart has stock wiring and that connections are clean and tight.

BUT, I'm no expert on those (others are) - and they will hopefully come to my rescue if I've mislead you.
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Unread 07-14-2015, 03:35 PM   #6
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Default Re: 1984 with coils

That gives me a pretty decent start.. THANK YOU Joesam.. I will update soon a i can.
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Unread 07-14-2015, 03:43 PM   #7
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Default Re: 1984 with coils

5 faint clicks from the little box at the end of go pedal linkage may or may not give 5 signals to activate solenoids. Unlikely they are all bad so I would guess you are missing the other side of the activation circuit.

Chew on this -


How Club Car 5 solenoid cart works
ms #1 triggers the master solenoid closest the driver side. The master solenoid connects the motor to the buss-bar, but no voltage exists at the buss-bar at this time so the cart does not move.

ms #2 triggers the next solenoid closest to the master, the cart moves at it's lowest speed since power passes through ALL of the the resistor coils before reaching the buss-bar (max resistance).

Push the pedal more and ms #3 triggers the next solenoid in line allowing power to reach the buss-bar through one less resistor coil. Less resistance = more amperage gets to the motor and it spins faster.

ms #4 allows current to go through two less resistor coils resulting in more power going to the motor and more speed is produced.

ms #5 allows current to flow directly from the FNR to the buss-bar to the motor without the use of any a resistor coils. This direct connection produces the max power and speed.

Additionally you need to understand these solenoids are 36v continuous duty golf cart specific! No automotive substitutes will work for long.

Each solenoid has 2 small posts for activation. It takes a + and - at the small posts to trigger the solenoid to close contact between the large posts. Read that again.

The - (negative) side of the solenoids activation feed is daisy chained together... all solenoids share a common source or wire from the F&R ms by way of the key switch (negative).

Like this battery B- > keyswitch > F&R ms > all solenoids.

The + side of the circuit comes from the 5 ms in the little silver box at the end of the gas pedal linkage which is activated sequentially by the slide discussed above.

The reverse buzzer is always connected to the +36v side, when the FNR is on reverse, the other side of the reverse buzzer is connected to B- by the way of the Motor Stator coil.
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Unread 07-14-2015, 03:55 PM   #8
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Default Re: 1984 with coils

WOW!!!!Now that's a mouth full.
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Unread 07-16-2015, 05:26 PM   #9
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Default Re: 1984 with coils

Well,, started at Z and worked my way back to A. Cant thank JoeSam or ScottyB enough, You guys were dead on.. YOu guys are better than Tylenol for a Headache...... I went thru all the Positive, took everything apart, cleaned, checked wiring, I had my pack volts on all Solenoids. then,,.. Found that Bad Switch !...Unreal.. Thank you again,, I owe ya..
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Unread 07-16-2015, 05:46 PM   #10
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Default Re: 1984 with coils

No Problem, welcome to BGW. If you like us donate to the website - it keeps the lights on late at night
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