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Unread 08-08-2015, 05:42 PM   #11
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car won't charge so testing things

Charging System Troubleshooting: (Charger Won't Turn On)

*

*********** 1. The first step would be to make sure the vehicle has enough voltage to trigger the charger turn-on signal from the on-board computer. Check the battery voltage of the entire battery pack with a digital volt meter. Put the positive lead on the MAIN positive battery post and the negative lead on the MAIN negative battery post. Total voltage should be at least 36-38 Volts. If it's not, you must boost the batteries individually. Contact me for further instructions on how to do so. If you do not have a digital volt meter you can perform this test by attempting to run the vehicle. If the vehicle has enough energy to make the solenoid switch "click" and attempt to run, it also has enough energy to engage the charger relay. This step may be skipped.

*

*********** 2. The next step is to check all wiring. Locate the charger receptacle of the vehicle. On the back of the charger receptacle you will see three wires. Red is the positive. Black is the negative. Grey is the On-Board computer control wire. Make sure that the red wire is in good shape and follow it all the way to the MAIN positive battery post. Make sure there is a good connection on the battery and ensure that the wire isn't corroded or broken. If it is, clean it and re-attempt to charge the vehicle. The black wire is not at risk of corrosion because it is wired directly into the on-board computer. As for the grey wire, give it a light pull outward and ensure that isn't broken inside the charger receptacle. The grey wire will often break inside the receptacle and will easily pull out the back. If this happens, you must replace the receptacle.

*

*********** 3. If you have a Club Car DS or Carryall vehicle you will have two fuses to check near the charger receptacle. One is an inline fuse located on the grey control wire mentioned in step two. It is located inside a yellow rubber fuse holder. Pull the fuse holder apart and check the fuse with your meter to ensure that there is continuity. If the fuse is bad, replace it with a 3/8 amp fuse. Anything else will damage the charging system. There is also a larger fuse bolted to the back of the charger receptacle. You'll see that there are two black wires bolted to the back of the receptacle. This is where you'll find the fuse. On the opposite side you'll see a fuse element inside a plastic window. Check this fuse with a multimeter as well. On the continuity setting, place each lead of your multimeter on each of the nuts where the black wires are bolted to the back of the receptacle. If you have continuity, the fuse is good. If you don't, replace the fuse.

*

*********** 4. Check the charger relay. Pull the cover off of the charger and locate the relay. On PowerDrive 17930 models you'll find the relay on the bottom floor of the charger at the front. On PowerDrive2 22110 models you'll find it bolted to the front wall of the charger above the circuit breaker. Make sure both power cords are unplugged from the charger and pull the blue wire and red wire off of the charger relay. If you look closely at the relay you'll notice that there are four posts. Two large posts, and two small posts. These red and blue wires are plugged into the smaller two posts of the relay. Once you've gotten them unplugged, set your multimeter to check for DC voltage and insert the leads of the multimeter into the ends of these two wires that you unplugged from the relay. Plug the cord into the golf cart. It is not necessary to plug the other cord into the wall. Within 2-10 seconds of plugging the cord into the cart, you should see full battery voltage on the screen of your meter. If so, this is an indication that the on-board computer is communicating with the charger and commanding the relay to turn on. If your charger hasn't been "clicking" on, replace the relay. If you don't see a change in voltage on your screen when this test is performed, this is an indication that the on-board computer has failed and is no longer able to communicate with the charger. The on-board computer must be replaced.
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Unread 08-08-2015, 05:44 PM   #12
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car won't charge so testing things

lesion to dave
he is way smarter than me
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Unread 08-09-2015, 09:46 AM   #13
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car won't charge so testing things

Definitely follow the procedure Dave posted, but I would like to comment on the test for the bridge rectifier.

That procedure described in the manual is the very least inconclusive.

The measurement from the Bridge Rectifier + and - cannot possibly tell you anything unless there was a failure in each parallel path inside the bridge.

The correct procedure should be:

Disconnect all 4 wires from Bridge Rectifier.

Set the meter to diode check.


To test both the diodes near the + terminal.

Place Black probe on + terminal.
You should get approximately 0.5v to each of the AC terminals.
Place Red probe on + terminal.
You should get OL to each of the AC terminals.

To test both the diodes near the - terminal.

Place Red probe on - terminal.
You should get approximately 0.5v to each of the AC terminals.
Place Black probe on - terminal.
You should get OL each of the AC terminals.
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Unread 08-09-2015, 02:32 PM   #14
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car won't charge so testing things

TahoeDawgZ71

I completed the 4 items in your post. 1-3 checked normal. Test 4 of the pack voltage using the method you described showed a pack voltage of 45 volts. I was glad to see the OBC was communicating to the relay but was perplexed since checking the pack voltage using the voltmeter connected directly to Bat #1 Pos and Bat #6 Neg shows 50 volts. Any significance to this drop in voltage readings?


Sergio

I'll check your procedure. Thanks
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Unread 08-09-2015, 02:57 PM   #15
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car won't charge so testing things

The OBC should use full battery voltage to turn on the charger. There shouldn't be a voltage drop. This tells me there's something wrong with the OBC.
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Unread 08-09-2015, 05:06 PM   #16
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car won't charge so testing things

Well dang it. Thanks Dave.
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Unread 08-09-2015, 11:44 PM   #17
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Smile Re: 2004 Club Car won't charge so testing things

So this info from David and Sergio is very valuable...what has to happen to get this valuable info a sticky or some other method that allows it to be recalled when needed. This just to good to not have it saved.
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Unread 08-09-2015, 11:47 PM   #18
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car won't charge so testing things

Quote:
Originally Posted by theboss20 View Post
So this info from David and Sergio is very valuable...what has to happen to get this valuable info a sticky or some other method that allows it to be recalled when needed. This just to good to not have it saved.
the powers that be would need to do it
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Unread 09-29-2015, 01:01 PM   #19
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car won't charge so testing things

Quote:
Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71 View Post
Charging System Troubleshooting: (Charger Won't Turn On)

*

*********** 1. The first step would be to make sure the vehicle has enough voltage to trigger the charger turn-on signal from the on-board computer. Check the battery voltage of the entire battery pack with a digital volt meter. Put the positive lead on the MAIN positive battery post and the negative lead on the MAIN negative battery post. Total voltage should be at least 36-38 Volts. If it's not, you must boost the batteries individually. Contact me for further instructions on how to do so. If you do not have a digital volt meter you can perform this test by attempting to run the vehicle. If the vehicle has enough energy to make the solenoid switch "click" and attempt to run, it also has enough energy to engage the charger relay. This step may be skipped.

*

*********** 2. The next step is to check all wiring. Locate the charger receptacle of the vehicle. On the back of the charger receptacle you will see three wires. Red is the positive. Black is the negative. Grey is the On-Board computer control wire. Make sure that the red wire is in good shape and follow it all the way to the MAIN positive battery post. Make sure there is a good connection on the battery and ensure that the wire isn't corroded or broken. If it is, clean it and re-attempt to charge the vehicle. The black wire is not at risk of corrosion because it is wired directly into the on-board computer. As for the grey wire, give it a light pull outward and ensure that isn't broken inside the charger receptacle. The grey wire will often break inside the receptacle and will easily pull out the back. If this happens, you must replace the receptacle.

*

*********** 3. If you have a Club Car DS or Carryall vehicle you will have two fuses to check near the charger receptacle. One is an inline fuse located on the grey control wire mentioned in step two. It is located inside a yellow rubber fuse holder. Pull the fuse holder apart and check the fuse with your meter to ensure that there is continuity. If the fuse is bad, replace it with a 3/8 amp fuse. Anything else will damage the charging system. There is also a larger fuse bolted to the back of the charger receptacle. You'll see that there are two black wires bolted to the back of the receptacle. This is where you'll find the fuse. On the opposite side you'll see a fuse element inside a plastic window. Check this fuse with a multimeter as well. On the continuity setting, place each lead of your multimeter on each of the nuts where the black wires are bolted to the back of the receptacle. If you have continuity, the fuse is good. If you don't, replace the fuse.

*

*********** 4. Check the charger relay. Pull the cover off of the charger and locate the relay. On PowerDrive 17930 models you'll find the relay on the bottom floor of the charger at the front. On PowerDrive2 22110 models you'll find it bolted to the front wall of the charger above the circuit breaker. Make sure both power cords are unplugged from the charger and pull the blue wire and red wire off of the charger relay. If you look closely at the relay you'll notice that there are four posts. Two large posts, and two small posts. These red and blue wires are plugged into the smaller two posts of the relay. Once you've gotten them unplugged, set your multimeter to check for DC voltage and insert the leads of the multimeter into the ends of these two wires that you unplugged from the relay. Plug the cord into the golf cart. It is not necessary to plug the other cord into the wall. Within 2-10 seconds of plugging the cord into the cart, you should see full battery voltage on the screen of your meter. If so, this is an indication that the on-board computer is communicating with the charger and commanding the relay to turn on. If your charger hasn't been "clicking" on, replace the relay. If you don't see a change in voltage on your screen when this test is performed, this is an indication that the on-board computer has failed and is no longer able to communicate with the charger. The on-board computer must be replaced.
I have a 97 ds 48v that wont charge. Followed this guide and everything is checking out. Pack voltage is right at 45v. Checked for communication of the obc and im getting pack voltage in the to small relay wires in the charger. The charger will not click or anything so I replaced the relay still nothing. Both fuses on the charger receptical check good. Not sure really where to go next.
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Unread 09-29-2015, 06:48 PM   #20
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car won't charge so testing things

Quote:
Originally Posted by eagant5 View Post
I have a 97 ds 48v that wont charge. Followed this guide and everything is checking out. Pack voltage is right at 45v. Checked for communication of the obc and im getting pack voltage in the to small relay wires in the charger. The charger will not click or anything so I replaced the relay still nothing. Both fuses on the charger receptical check good. Not sure really where to go next.
Does the charger relay click when you manually provide negative voltage to the grey wire on the back of the charger receptacle? Pull the fuse holder apart that contains the 3/8 amp fuse on the grey wire. On the receptacle side of the fuse, use a jumper wire and manually make a connection between the tip of the fuse to the MAIN negative battery post (The post with the black wire that runs through the OBC). If the relay clicks when you make the connection, replace the OBC.
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