08-09-2015, 02:00 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: cheshire, England
Posts: 25
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dead club car
I have a 04 DS Electric IQ 48v regen club car and it is totally dead. I have put a test across the 6 batteries without them coupled up to the car and get a reading of 50volts however this drops to 22volts when coupled to the car. there is no sound from the buzzer when I select reverse. there is no clicking sounds and there is no noise from the motor, I have made sure that it is in the run position and not the tow position. and it will not charge and no click sound when coupling up the charger. where is the best place to start please. I have even tried kicking it and thrashing it with a stick...that does not work either. lol
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08-09-2015, 02:03 PM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 2,114
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Re: dead club car
First speak harsh to it with cuz words, some work better than others.
You need to figure out why voltage drops to 22 volts. Batteries is most common culprit |
08-09-2015, 02:11 PM | #3 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: cheshire, England
Posts: 25
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Re: dead club car
I do have one of the 8v battery giving a high reading of 11.6volts and it looks like there has been some heating problem around one post as it looks like the case around the terminal has melted a little
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08-09-2015, 02:42 PM | #4 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Hampton, GA
Posts: 467
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Re: dead club car
reading of 50volts however this drops to 22volts when coupled to the car.
Just by hooking up the leads it drops, ?? Need to start with a wiring diagram to see if the previous owner has been working on that charging problem and miss wired something,... the guy sold it to me said he was having problems with charging it and the batteries were only 10 months old? he also said the car stated to run slower and in the end stopped That could be a shorted motor |
08-10-2015, 09:07 AM | #5 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: cheshire, England
Posts: 25
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Re: dead club car
I have taken all the wires off the motor and tried a test across the batteries and getting a reading of 34 volts with the motor disconnected is this about right please ?
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08-10-2015, 09:17 AM | #6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: cheshire, England
Posts: 25
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Re: dead club car
also taken off the red and yellow wires from the solenoid as well as off the motor and now getting a reading across the batteries of 49 volts, any idea what to do next, apart from a stiff drink. lol
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08-10-2015, 11:57 AM | #7 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Rio Verde, Az
Posts: 7,192
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Re: dead club car
You have a bad connection somewhere between batteries or a failed battery that has high impedance. When it's 22V, read each battery individually and you will find where the drop is.
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08-10-2015, 12:15 PM | #8 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: cheshire, England
Posts: 25
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Re: dead club car
the voltage only drops when the solenoid and the motor are connected
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08-10-2015, 12:27 PM | #9 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Hampton, GA
Posts: 467
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Re: dead club car
Could be a something shorting to ground , a cable , motor or controller I think.
Wires are from battery positive to solenoid , other solenoid post to B+ on controller then to motor,...?? if so, I would connect the battery cable to solenoid, check the ohms of the resistor to make sure it's ok, put it and the other side back on solenoid, cables back on battery pack and see , if around 49 volts , put in Tow, disconnect battery pack ( always when connecting controller ) the try on B+, then back on B+ on controller , until you find what is drawing batts down, |
08-10-2015, 12:28 PM | #10 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Hampton, GA
Posts: 467
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Re: dead club car
TEST PROCEDURE 1 – INTERNAL SHORT CIRCUITS
See General Warnings, Section 1, Page 1-1. 1. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING "To avoid unintentionally starting..." in General Warnings, Section 1, Page 1-1. 2. Using two wrenches to prevent posts from turning, disconnect wires from terminals on motor. 3. Using a multimeter set to 200 Ω (ohms), place black (–) probe on motor housing. Scratch through paint to ensure a good connection. Place red (+) probe on A1, A2, F1, and F2 terminals respectively (Figure 15-1, Page 15-2). Multimeter should indicate no continuity. If readings are incorrect, motor will need to be removed from the vehicle and repaired by a qualified technician. See Motor Removal on page 15-3. 3.1. An incorrect reading from the A1 or A2 terminal indicates three possible problems: a grounded A1 or A2 terminal, a grounded wire in the brush area, or a grounded armature/commutator. An incorrect reading for the F1 or F2 terminal indicates a possible grounded F1 or F2 terminal or field coil. |
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