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Unread 08-16-2015, 07:45 PM   #21
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Default Re: Hey guys, needing some help diagnosing a 99 ds.

if your cart moves with solenoid jumped i'd say it was bad

Quote:
Originally Posted by crash test dummy View Post
do a solenoid test on each one

Quote:
Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. remove all wires, restorer , and diode from solenoid
test 1
Connect an volt meter, set on continuity, place on the two large terminal studs. The meter should indicate no continuity, Replace the solenoid if continuity is present.
test 2
Using jumper wires attach from main positive and main negative of battery pack to the two small solenoid studs, polarity is not important. You should hear a click as the solenoid engages, and the meter should indicate continuity on the two large terminals. Replace the solenoid if continuity is not present.
if solenoid clicks rapidly solenoid is bad
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bakers dozen View Post
When I acquired this cart.
It had an older solenoid disconnected with what looks like a newer one in its place. There is another solenoid with a coil resistor on it..
even a new one can go bad
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Unread 08-16-2015, 08:01 PM   #22
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Default Re: Hey guys, needing some help diagnosing a 99 ds.

Not sure how long it had sat after that even being replaced.

Ordered a new one for 22$ but no way it can even get here fast enough lol.

Look forward getting it on the road to the beach.
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Unread 08-16-2015, 08:21 PM   #23
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Default Re: Hey guys, needing some help diagnosing a 99 ds.

The coil got hot, tells me the driver side solenoid is not closing and the coil is carring the load. That's why it is getting hot. Connect both white wires to same post on drivers side solenoid. That will bypass it.
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Unread 08-16-2015, 08:27 PM   #24
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Default Re: Hey guys, needing some help diagnosing a 99 ds.

Also try using jumper wires to connect main pos. and main neg. to solenoids small post if they click the are closing. Seems the wires that supply voltage to those small post may not be getting voltage. THIS IS JUST TO TEST THE SOLENOID AND CAN , SHOULD BE DONE WITH CART IN TOW.
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Unread 08-16-2015, 09:38 PM   #25
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Default Re: Hey guys, needing some help diagnosing a 99 ds.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgolf View Post
The coil got hot, tells me the driver side solenoid is not closing and the coil is carring the load. That's why it is getting hot. Connect both white wires to same post on drivers side solenoid. That will bypass it.
So on the driver side solenoid when closed the two larger wires are then connected to each other, but if solenoid is bad and staying open, the voltage travels through the resistor and becomes hot. That's pretty much what I had taken from what you said.

As for the smaller wires in on the pass side. I think I had voltage on one side but was not closing solenoid.

Any idea what kind of voltage should be found on the smaller wires going into the solenoid.
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Unread 08-16-2015, 09:46 PM   #26
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Default Re: Hey guys, needing some help diagnosing a 99 ds.

Yes on the first part. The small wires get pack voltage to operate the solenoid. One side will be pos, the other will be neg.
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Unread 08-16-2015, 10:16 PM   #27
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Default Re: Hey guys, needing some help diagnosing a 99 ds.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgolf View Post
Yes on the first part. The small wires get pack voltage to operate the solenoid. One side will be pos, the other will be neg.
Ok. I will figure out what one is neg through continuity and check for voltage on the other side.

I am hoping to find voltage on one side but still no clicky
And it be a bad solenoid.

The driver side solenoid appears to be the same as pass, just uses the resistor coil so I guess I will order another one of those as well.
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Unread 08-17-2015, 07:32 AM   #28
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Default Re: Hey guys, needing some help diagnosing a 99 ds.

Let's make sure they are bad. You can put pack voltage on the small post, if they click the coil is working. That connects the two large post like a heavy duty switch.

If you put your meter black wire on the pack neg, touch the red one to the small post on each solenoid. I think the controller sends the neg side to the solenoid when it needs it to operate. Where is Segrio when I need him to explain this stuff. Anyway with key on and cart in RUN you should have pack voltage on one side. Now if I'm wrong try put the red led on pack pos. and touch the black led to the small post, see if you get pack voltage that way, controller may send pos. to solenoid, one way or the other you should get pack voltage. I hope this helps.
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Unread 08-17-2015, 08:55 AM   #29
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Default Re: Hey guys, needing some help diagnosing a 99 ds.

Basically should be pack voltage somewhere is what you are saying. I will see what I can come up with.
I was not sure if I should see pack voltage or a smaller amount. At least know what to look for.

Would it hurt to take a test ride with the pass side solenoid jumped out.

Thanks again. All info is much appreciated.
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Unread 08-17-2015, 12:02 PM   #30
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Default Re: Hey guys, needing some help diagnosing a 99 ds.

A working controller has several conditions that have to be met before it will drive the motor,...


1998-1999
Maintenance and
Service Manual
Supplement

http://www.epdfdirect.com/view.php?i...ric.pdf&k=club car service manual pdf

Supplies 48 volt input to controller through the red wire to keep capacitors inside the
controller charged. Supplies voltage when key switch is either ON or OFF, if TOW/RUN switch
is in RUN position. Voltage input to controller capacitors is shut off when TOW/RUN switch is
in TOW position.
Pin 2 completes circuit to controller through orange/white wire when TOW/RUN switch is in
RUN position. Activates electronic components in the controller to allow the vehicle to operate.
With the TOW/RUN switch in the RUN position, the key switch ON and the accelerator pedal
depressed (limit switch closed), Pin 3 completes circuit through the green/white wire to
controller, which actuates controller and starts vehicle.
When F&R switch is in FORWARD, Pin 4 completes circuit to controller through white wire to
operate vehicle in forward direction.
When F&R switch is in REVERSE, Pin 5 completes circuit to controller through blue wire to
operate vehicle in reverse direction.
If the vehicle is not charged for three days, the onboard computer powers down the electrical
system to reduce battery discharge during long term storage. Pin 6 provides voltage input
to the OBC when the accelerator pedal is depressed to power-up the system.


Pin 12 completes the negative circuit for DB solenoid activating coil through the brown wire,
which closes solenoid contacts during normal operation. Pin 12 shuts off voltage to DB
solenoid during dynamic braking which allows current to go through the resistor coil until
batteries can accept a regenerative charge.
Pin 11 completes the negative circuit for the main solenoid activating coil through blue/white
wire and closes solenoid contacts which allows vehicle to operate.
If there is no vehicle
movement when main solenoid engages, Pin 11 shuts off voltage to the solenoid after two
seconds. During normal operation, each time accelerator pedal is released, Pin 11 shuts off
voltage to the solenoid after two seconds.
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