MCOR/Controller question - 2002 CLUB CAR DS IQ

kdeerman

Does anyone know if bad MCOR will prevent pin 12 of controller from pulling low to energize the solenoid? Controller is Curtis 1510-5201.
Thanks

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

glassk

Pin 12 – Blue/White (18-gauge) Solenoid coil – The speed controller provides a ground for the solenoid coil after the accelerator pedal is pressed,

Sounds like the symptoms of a bad MCOR to me, Unplug the MCOR and jump the 2 pin connector with a paperclip and see if it works. Let me know what you find.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1124152

link is to a post by

David Hicks
Owner/Operator - Revolution Golf Cars
I just read them , he has the experience with them

kdeerman

Thanks David,
The solenoid would click and cart would surge forward a foot or so, then solenoid would drop out and cart would then stop, and sometimes even surge backward while switch was in the forward position. I unplugged the 2 wire connector and jumped it with a paper clip, and got nothing, and when I plugged the connector back into the MCOR, I got nothing - Solenoid was no longer clicking. My daughters had just bottomed the cart out on a dirt bank, and had to get the neighbor to help them push it off of the dirt bank. They asked me to check to see if there was anything under the cart that they could have damaged, that's when I researched and found out about the MCOR. I was thinking I may have damaged the controller by jumping the 2 pin connector on the MCOR, but maybe I should try jumping it again?

TahoeDawgZ71

You're not going to damage the controller by jumping the 2 pin connector of the MCOR. You're bypassing the internal micro switch of the MCOR when you do that. In order for the vehicle to begin to move the microswitch must close, which you're doing manually with a paperclip. Throttle signal must also be applied via the three pin connector within the MCOR. Once you jump the 2 pin out, it's necessary to apply throttle via the pedal. The solenoid won't click when the 2 pin connector is jumped unless it detects throttle signal from the 3-pin connector. If the vehicle operates normally with the jumper in place, replace the MCOR. We have them in stock if you're interested.

kdeerman

OK, Thanks. I'll do that test again this weekend.

kdeerman

I re-installed the MCOR last night to do this test. I jumped the 2 pin connector with a paper clip, and applied throttle. Solenoid clicked, but I'm not sure if tires turned, so I got into a position where I could watch to see if tires turned, and depressed throttle again and solenoid would not click again. I turned off ignition switch and turned cart to tow, then back to run, removed and replaced paper clip, turned ignition switch on and tried it again several times. I got nothing. Could my problem be in the three wire portion of MCOR? Whatever the problem is, it seems it is preventing pin 12 of controller form pulling low. Thanks

TahoeDawgZ71

It's possible but doubtful. Two possible scenarios. One, the vehicle would have to detect no throttle at all for this to happen. The second scenario would be an MCOR that is out of range that is applying a small percentage of throttle when the pedal is released and zero throttle is detected. Once zero throttle is detected, you may apply throttle and it should go. This small percentage of throttle would trigger a "High Pedal Detect" fault and the vehicle will not run until the pedal is released. It's a safety feature that keeps the vehicle from running when the key is turned on if the pedal gets stuck on the floor. Try doing this.... Unplug both connectors from the MCOR. Install the jumper in the 2 pin connector. Once it's in place, plug the three pin connector into the mcor and see if it runs. If it does, I'd be inclined to go with scenario number 2. Replace the MCOR and you should be good to go.

kdeerman

OK,Thanks David. I'll try that.

kdeerman

Performed the test as you described, and solenoid is no longer clicking at all. Do you know if there is a way to bypass the 3-wire portion of the switch using a potentiometer or something? Thanks

TahoeDawgZ71

You can check the MCOR for resistance. Unplug the three pin plug. Check for resistance between the pins where the yellow wire and the white/black wire were. You should see approximately 6800ohms at zero throttle and 1100 ohms on the floor.