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WGCS 08-31-2015 03:28 PM

1997 Club Car Electric
 
Looking at a 1997 club car ds electric serial number A9712-565987 that has a controller and 1 resistor coil. Shouldn't it be one or the other? It also has a v-glide and 2 solenoids. I think someone rigged this thing up unless there is some goofy system that I've never seen before. Any info would be great

Thanks

mrgolf 08-31-2015 03:43 PM

Re: 1997 Club Car Electric
 
Sounds like a regen 1 set up.

mardad 08-31-2015 04:16 PM

Re: 1997 Club Car Electric
 
There was a thread on the Power Drive Plus (regen 1) set up not too long ago. I believe the resistor and solenoid are called "Energy Displacement Module" I cant remember who was involved in the thread and I cant find it. One of the "Wizards" explained how to by-pass the dynamic braking. Helped me out a bunch.
good Luck

mrgolf 08-31-2015 04:37 PM

Re: 1997 Club Car Electric
 
1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 124831

Dynamic braking solenoid and coil.

TahoeDawgZ71 08-31-2015 06:07 PM

Re: 1997 Club Car Electric
 
These guys are correct. It's a "Regen1" system. Is it giving you any trouble or is it working properly?

WGCS 09-01-2015 07:01 AM

Re: 1997 Club Car Electric
 
It isn't working. Guess I should have mentioned that. None of the wiring diagrams I found looked like what I have. Could you point me in the right direction?

joesam 09-01-2015 01:59 PM

Re: 1997 Club Car Electric
 
As far as I know (I'm guessing) - only the v-glide was added/changed in '97 (instead of potentiometer for the accelerator). But its also possible your cart has an "updated" controller. What color is your controller? - grey or black? (its mounted upside down in the battery compartment just behind the passenger seat on the upper frame).

There is a link to a '95-'96 Regen 1 full-service manual in THIS THREAD - are the wire colors correct? It will be extremely useful if you have a Regen 1, regardless that its a year older. I assume you have no run/tow switch...correct?

WGCS 09-18-2015 10:02 AM

Re: 1997 Club Car Electric
 
Correct, no run tow switch and controller is black. I followed test procedures in manual and had a question about test procedure 6 on 21-28 and 21-29. Number 2 says voltage should be approx .8 volts lower with key off than key on when testing voltage to large solenoid terminal with yellow wire. When I do this I get no change. Battery voltage is 49.53v and voltage to the yellow wire is 48.67 with key on or off. Am I missing something?

joesam 09-18-2015 10:17 AM

Re: 1997 Club Car Electric
 
Not sure what that means other than you are getting voltage to the controller (Sergio is the smart guy that would likely know what it means) - but there's some really basic stuff to answer first.

Here's the most basic. Does the solenoid click-on when you turn the key to the on position? And does it automatically click-off (without touching anything) a few seconds later?

EDIT: Not that it matters a bunch for troubleshooting, but your batteries are less than 75% charged - wouldn't hurt to charge 'em.

Sergio 09-18-2015 12:04 PM

Re: 1997 Club Car Electric
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by WGCS (Post 1200056)
Correct, no run tow switch and controller is black. I followed test procedures in manual and had a question about test procedure 6 on 21-28 and 21-29. Number 2 says voltage should be approx .8 volts lower with key off than key on when testing voltage to large solenoid terminal with yellow wire. When I do this I get no change. Battery voltage is 49.53v and voltage to the yellow wire is 48.67 with key on or off. Am I missing something?

That means the solenoid is not closing.

With the key OFF, you are measuring 49.53-48.67=0.86v drop across the resistor on top of the solenoid, which is correct.

When You turn the switch ON, the solenoid should close and take the resistor OFF the circuit, so the voltage should be the same as in the battery pack.

Are You getting 48v across the small Solenoid terminals with the switch ON?


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