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Unread 11-06-2015, 11:16 AM   #31
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Default Re: 1995 Club Car won't move

No dice. As soon as I place that jumper, nothing happens. I took everything off and turned the solenoid around (wasn't sure if there is a direction on that), and put everything back on and still nothing.

I went back and did the pack tests to the solenoid:
Positive Pack With or Without jumper,
Lg Red 0, w/pedal 0
Lg Yel 0, w/pedal 0
Sm Yel 51, w/pedal 51
Sm Red 51, w/pedal 51

Negative with no jumper
Lg Red 51, w/pedal 0
Lg Yel 51, w/pedal 0
Sm Yel 0, w/pedal 51
Sm Red 0, w/pedal 51

Negative WITH jumper
Lg Red 51, w/pedal 51
Lg Yel 51, w/pedal 51
Sm Yel 0, w/pedal 0
Sm Red 0, w/pedal 0
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Unread 11-06-2015, 12:48 PM   #32
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Default Re: 1995 Club Car won't move

Quote:
Originally Posted by JPLSALES View Post
No dice. As soon as I place that jumper, nothing happens. I took everything off and turned the solenoid around (wasn't sure if there is a direction on that), and put everything back on and still nothing.

I went back and did the pack tests to the solenoid:
Positive Pack With or Without jumper,
Lg Red 0, w/pedal 0
Lg Yel 0, w/pedal 0
Sm Yel 51, w/pedal 51
Sm Red 51, w/pedal 51

Negative with no jumper
Lg Red 51, w/pedal 0
Lg Yel 51, w/pedal 0
Sm Yel 0, w/pedal 51
Sm Red 0, w/pedal 51

Negative WITH jumper
Lg Red 51, w/pedal 51
Lg Yel 51, w/pedal 51
Sm Yel 0, w/pedal 0
Sm Red 0, w/pedal 0
Those readings indicate that You are not getting the +48v from the FNR micro switch.

Go back to the tests tracing the +48v path to the FNR, V-Glide and Key switch.

You may also want to remove the pre-charge resistor to make sure the Solenoid is not welded (the voltage on the big post where the Yellow cable is connected to should go to 0v).
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Unread 11-07-2015, 10:54 AM   #33
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Default Re: 1995 Club Car won't move

Ok - Went back to the beginning - everything is set back to where the wiring diagram says it should be (I took the jumper out from the small yellow to the b- controller for now). It looks like the MS in the pot box is bad. Is there an easy way toreplace that switch without tearing that whole assembly off of the cart?
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Unread 11-07-2015, 11:24 AM   #34
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Default Re: 1995 Club Car won't move

I personally have not ever changed one of them, so I will defer to the folks with hands-on experience on that part.

Just remember that when You install the new one, You need to use the "Normally Closed" contacts of the micro switch.
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Unread 11-07-2015, 11:33 AM   #35
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Default Re: 1995 Club Car won't move

Normally closed? Wha???
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Unread 11-07-2015, 11:44 AM   #36
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Default Re: 1995 Club Car won't move

Easy is a relative term. The m/s can be changed with multi-step in place. Both covers need to be off to do it. The m/s is held in place with 2 machine screws and nuts. 1 or 2 batteries will need to be removed to gain access to both sides.


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Unread 11-07-2015, 06:42 PM   #37
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Default Re: 1995 Club Car won't move

Quote:
Originally Posted by JPLSALES View Post
Normally closed? Wha???
The m/s in the multi-step will have 3 tabs or lugs. They will be marked C (common), NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed). You want to attach 1 wire to C and the other wire to NC. It doesn't matter which color goes where.


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Unread 11-10-2015, 12:35 PM   #38
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Default Re: 1995 Club Car won't move

Ok. I have the switch out. I went to my local club car dealer to get a switch and they looked at me like I was an alien. They said they have never seen a switch like this. I tried modifying a normal switch, but when I mount it, it always is closed because it is always hitting the cam of the pedal.
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Unread 11-10-2015, 12:55 PM   #39
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Default Re: 1995 Club Car won't move

That switch belongs in a Continuous Variable Potentiometer (CVP), not a Multi-Step Potentiometer (V-Glide look alike) setup.

The correct switch is always Closed (plunger depressed) when the pedal is Up, and Open (Plunger released) when the pedal is down.

That is the reason why it needs to be a Normally Closed Switch.
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Unread 11-10-2015, 01:38 PM   #40
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Default Re: 1995 Club Car won't move

So - it had the wrong switch in from the start and worked?

Anyway - I should have a three prong switch and not a two prong one wired according to Tag50's post?
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