Need recommendation on CC electrics

ApexVintage

This is my first post. I stummbled accross this site while looking for parts and am impressed by the info available. You guys have a great forum here.

I work for a race team and needed a pit vehicle. I bought a used 94 Club Car series cart with the resistors for $300 which I thought was a pretty good deal. The more I looked at this thing the more I thought I would just build a custom vehicle that was more suited to my needs using the CC components. I figured I would just replace the resistors with a controller, upgrade the motor, and change to 48v. This was before I found out how expensive these components are.

Here are my requirements: I'm keeping stock diameter tires on it and would like to get 15 to 20 mph speed out of it. I will be towing 2000 lb race cars mostly on flat ground, but occasionally up hills. I have a stock 36v EZ-GO that tows these cars just fine So I know what to expect there. I can get 8v batteries for the same price as 6v so I was considering that. My reasoning here was for efficiency. For the same speed, as the voltage goes up, the current draw should go down right?

So, can I keep the stock 36v motor and go 48v with it for the speed increase?

Will the resistors deal with this if I upgrade the solenoid? I'm not keen on keeping the resistors and turning my voltage into heat, but the controllers are pretty expensive. If I did go with a controller, since my current draw should be less on 48v, could I go with a lower amperage unit?
If I change to the controller, what do I need to send a signal from the acc pedal to it? Will the V-Glide thing work?

I could also just keep all these stock components and run it on 36V, how bad did these suck?

Thanks in advance for any info you can give me.

Dave

BGW

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scottyb

The 36v motor will respond very well to 48v...with an increase of about 25% in speed and torque.... You can do that with resistors but.......I do not recommend towing a car on resistors, especially at 48v. You will melt something. A good controller of 400amps isn't too expensive....and a conversion kit is avail for the V-glide too.

roady89

Welcome to BGW and thank YOU for the compliment.

Yes, your amp draw will go down as voltage goes up.

Yes. The 36 volt club car motor is a prize in itself. It responds well to 48 volts. Don't let anyone talk you out of that motor.


Many people have run 48 volts through those carts without trouble.....then there are some who have trouble. You never know until you do it. The resistors are out of the circuit at WOT....the problem is when your less than WOT. Since your towing you will probly burn the coils out in short order unless you can keep it wide open. Some people throw 12 volts worth of batts in the bagwell, run them in series with the others and go for a ride. Try that and You'll be hooked then.

Your not doing a bit of good unless you get a controller that will put out at lease 400 amps. It's true the amp draw goes down but in your case you need all the help you can get. (guy in the for sale section has them on sale for $195. He might have some left.)

You will need:

• 36-48 volt controller
• 48 volt solenoid
• Throttle pot. The one you have will not work for this.
• 48 volt worth of battery charging

scottyb

I recently learned that if you are replacing the coils with a controller do not get suckered into a 5k-0 potentiometer and controller, ( just cause it is going into a CC) use a 0-5k set up. You see you need to buy both and they must be matched....But the 0-5k system is something you can buy anywhere, anytime.

ApexVintage

Thanks for the quick responses. I have no problem mixing and matching components if I have to, I just don't know enough about the components to make a confident choice. I saw the controllers that were for sale and wondered whether I could use them. Not having to buy a motor is good news, that money can now go for a charger.

So, I get a 400 amp controller, what solenoid do you recommend?
This throttle pot needs to be 0-5k resistance, not the other way around. Check. This is mounted remotely and linkage operated or will I need to fab up a new pedal assy?

I won't need the V glide unit or wiring I guess. Will I still need the F-R switch or is this now in the controller? If in the controller how is it actuated?

What cars are wired this way so I can look for a basic wiring diagram for this setup? Do these controllers have any sort of reverse voltage protection or do I let the magic smoke out if I wire it wrong?

Sorry for so many questions. I can fabricate anything I need and understand electrics and mechanics just fine, I just don't know a thing about the various golf cart components. Thanks again for the help.

Dave

roady89

OK....I don't want you to get your hopes up but.....The V-glide throttle used on controller carts have a series of 7 resistors in series bolted to the studs on the V-Glide. I have never seen one converted....I know they look identical. You may be able to convert your. Again, I do not know for sure. Here is a link to what I am reffering to. http://www.cartparts.com/ItemForm.as...e-5ea8c8b6015a

You will use the F/R switch and cables....rewire the rest. It's pretty straight forward. If you can wire a race car you can wire a cart.

scottyb

Replace all of the battery cables with 4 gauge welding lead wire and (best) soldered copper ends. Replace all of the cables to the F&R and motor also!

The V-glide can be replaced with a PB-6 for about the same $ as the conversion and I hear that you will experience smoother acceleration with the PB-6...
I just put the PB-6 on a 89 CC conversion I am building. I could post some pics of the simple bracket I made to mount it ....

ApexVintage

Ok, so by soldering the resistors to the V-Glide and removing most of the wires, I just turn it into a large throttle pot. I don't see why that wouldn't work. I'll google this PB-6 and see what that's about. Thanks.

scottyb

You can turn it into an arch welder !!!
Search Curtis potentiometer or PB-6
Stay away from anything else IMHO no chineese crap.....

ApexVintage

Ok, the resistor deal looked good until I saw the price. I've decided that golf cart parts are like boat or airplane parts. If it says that it fits any of those things it's automatically three times the price :) Oh well. The PB-6 looks like it will do what I need.

Is there a wiring diagram that would most closely approximate this setup?

Dave