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Unread 10-29-2015, 11:55 AM   #11
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Default Re: 1990 Club Car 36V V-Glide Getting HOT

it needs to be flat and make complete circuit otherwise it will over heat eventually and wear out prematurely.
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Unread 10-29-2015, 02:08 PM   #12
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Default Re: 1990 Club Car 36V V-Glide Getting HOT

Ok, took the entire glide off and made it flat. Drove it about 100 yards and it's getting hot. I also changed out the wires going from the top contact and bottom going back to the resistor. I also cleaned off the resistors again. I'm totally perplexed.
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Unread 10-29-2015, 02:31 PM   #13
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Default Re: 1990 Club Car 36V V-Glide Getting HOT

Your best solution may be to use a "V-Glide high step by-pass" (just google it) so no current flows thru the V-Glide at all at WOT under any load conditions.

Two important things about the high step V-Glide bypass not mentioned in the PDF.
1) The solenoid you use cannot have any external or internal diodes. That is because the coil activation polarity for that solenoid gets reversed with the F&R switch.

2) You cannot use half-voltage reverse. Most solenoids need at least 75% of the rated coil voltage to activate, so no less than 30v (5 batteries) needs to be used for reverse.
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Unread 10-30-2015, 05:44 PM   #14
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Default Re: 1990 Club Car 36V V-Glide Getting HOT

I looked at the PDF and it's showing two solenoids. My resistor 90 CC only has one. I'm not really sure if that PDF is for my CC.
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Unread 10-30-2015, 09:03 PM   #15
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Default Re: 1990 Club Car 36V V-Glide Getting HOT

The second solenoid is the one that You need to add.

The idea is that the second solenoid completes the connection from the main solenoid directly to the motor Terminal A2.

You remove the last 6ga cable from the V-Glide (black) and in its place run a 18ga wire to one of the small posts of the new solenoid.

The other small post of the new solenoid gets wired to motor terminal A1.

That way when the V-Glide touches the last pad, the new solenoid closes and the high current completely by-passes the V-Glide and resistor coils and goes directly to the motor.
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Unread 10-31-2015, 09:36 AM   #16
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Default Re: 1990 Club Car 36V V-Glide Getting HOT

Here is a diagram to go with the description above.

The Red Cable should be the same gauge as your battery cables (6ga, 4ga).

The Green Wire for the solenoid coil is 18ga minimum.

Please note that the Half-Speed reverse cable has been moved to the 36v pack positive location.
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Unread 10-31-2015, 10:26 AM   #17
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Default Re: 1990 Club Car 36V V-Glide Getting HOT

That is a pretty slick re-design, should help extend the life of the V-glide.
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Unread 12-01-2015, 08:44 PM   #18
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Default Re: 1990 Club Car 36V V-Glide Getting HOT

Sergio, does this mod give it anymore speed?
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Unread 12-01-2015, 09:00 PM   #19
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Default Re: 1990 Club Car 36V V-Glide Getting HOT

It by-passes the most restrictive part of the circuit which is the V-Glide with its wiper arm flexible wire that connects through a bolt to the power cable and the pad to pad low pressure connection.

It also prevents the V-Glide from heating up under continued WOT operation.

That will give You the most efficient operation, but 36v will definitively be the speed limiting factor.

I think it could make the cart go faster if there were restrictions before the mod.
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Unread 12-17-2015, 12:01 PM   #20
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Default Re: 1990 Club Car 36V V-Glide Getting HOT

Guys I have been at this for some time, but I have finally figured out what the problem is. These aftermarket VGlide switches have defective switch brush assembly. When you replace everything and it's getting hot and you know your wiring and batteries are new and correct this is the issue. I order an original manufactured one from Club Car and it resolved the problem immediately. The one that came with the VGlide either has air pockets in the head of the material is not conductive. Hope this helps other going through this frustration. In the photo you can see the one from Club Car is copper and the Chinese made one is ???
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