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Unread 11-08-2015, 09:00 AM   #1
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Default Motor Running Hot

I recently bought a lifted 2002 Club Car that has stock motor (3.75 hp according to seller) and solenoid, newly installed 400a controller, 12" tires, new 6 gauge cables and batteries.

I am satisfied with normal travel with 2 people. It will run 18 mph and it can climb hills, etc with no problem. But when riding 4 people on paths through the woods, the motor and controller get very hot and shuts down (I am assuming the controller has a hi temp shut-off). After a few minutes of cooling, it will run as normal for about 5 min and shut off again.

Obviously I need more upgrade. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks.
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Unread 11-08-2015, 09:26 AM   #2
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Default Re: Motor Running Hot

Increase your cable size at least to 4 gauge as that is barely suitable to a stock cart.... The small cables are a bottle neck and are surely increasing the heat.... You may also want to look into a Bandit motor upgrade from Plum-Quick too.....
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Unread 11-08-2015, 10:01 AM   #3
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Default Re: Motor Running Hot

Thanks for the advice. Can the 6 gauge cables really cause that much heat to the motor and controller?
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Unread 11-08-2015, 10:29 AM   #4
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Default Re: Motor Running Hot

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Originally Posted by fiddlerabbit View Post
Thanks for the advice. Can the 6 gauge cables really cause that much heat to the motor and controller?
Note that your motor is not any different but since your controller has been upgraded one must assume that it is programed to allow more speed as well as more amps to pass through to the motor. Thus your cart does not know that it is under such a heavy load as the motor attempts do do something it was not orginally designed for, such as carry 4 passengers up hilly terrian with bigger than stock tires etc.... Thus your motor and undersize wires are going to get HOT....

6 gauge cables were only meant for stock 2-man carts with a 250 amp limit on the controller.... Given enough time the bottle necked cables will cause a lot of heat to transfer to the point that all componits get hot; perhaps too hot.

Larger wires will help some by taking out the bottleneck but this is why in my first post I said you need to look to a better motor too....


Also make sure that your solenoid is rated for the amperage that your controller is rated for too....

Another thing is that one must makes absolutely sure that all cable connections as clean and tight......
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Unread 11-08-2015, 10:41 AM   #5
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Default Re: Motor Running Hot

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Originally Posted by fiddlerabbit View Post
Thanks for the advice. Can the 6 gauge cables really cause that much heat to the motor and controller?
I would think the cables would get hot way before anything else if they were the bottleneck. Much like how a toaster works, a space heater, or a light bulb. Resistance creates heat, the smaller the wire the more the resistance.

I wonder if with the aftermarket motors if they do not rewind them with a more beefier wire. Your stock motor may not be to handle the load now. Increasing the wire size to pump more power into the motor may just burn it out that much faster given the new "newly installed 400a controller."
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Unread 11-08-2015, 11:20 AM   #6
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Default Re: Motor Running Hot

This is from the D & D aftermarket motor website:

"Since the series field winding is connected in series with the armature, it will carry the same amount of current that passes through the armature. For this reason the field is made from heavy-gauge wire that is large enough to carry the load. Since the wire gauge is so large, the winding will have only a few turns of wire. In some larger DC motors, the field winding is made from copper bar stock rather than the conventional round wire used for power distribution. The square or rectangular shape of the copper bar stock makes it fit more easily around the field pole pieces. It can also radiate more easily the heat that has built up in the winding due to the large amount of current being carried.

FIGURE 12-10 Electrical diagram of series motor. Notice that the series field is identified as S1 and S2.

The amount of current that passes through the winding determines the amount of torque the motor shaft can produce. Since the series field is made of large conductors, it can carry large amounts of current and produce large torques. For example, the starter motor that is used to start an automobile's engine is a series motor and it may draw up to 500 A when it is turning the engine's crankshaft on a cold morning. Series motors used to power hoists or cranes may draw currents of thousands of amperes during operation."


On another thread I created last night I was accused of being a "troll." I do not take kindly to that, and I believe your thread proves a point I was making on mine.

Electric carts are good for torque, not speed. Once you go that speed route by modifying the cart, just keep breaking out $100 bills until you replace all the electrical parts in it, or trade the cart for a gasser.
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Unread 11-08-2015, 11:43 AM   #7
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Default Re: Motor Running Hot

Could be a Regen,...
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Unread 11-08-2015, 01:32 PM   #8
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Default Re: Motor Running Hot

Thanks to all. I'm not sure what a regen is. I think torque is what I need. The motor and controller get overheated with 4 people fairly slow, through some dry ditches, etc. What do I need to keep the motor and controller from running hot with this load?
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Unread 11-08-2015, 02:04 PM   #9
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Default Re: Motor Running Hot

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruise Master View Post
This is from the D & D aftermarket motor website:

"Since the series field winding is connected in series with the armature, it will carry the same amount of current that passes through the armature. For this reason the field is made from heavy-gauge wire that is large enough to carry the load. Since the wire gauge is so large, the winding will have only a few turns of wire. In some larger DC motors, the field winding is made from copper bar stock rather than the conventional round wire used for power distribution. The square or rectangular shape of the copper bar stock makes it fit more easily around the field pole pieces. It can also radiate more easily the heat that has built up in the winding due to the large amount of current being carried.

FIGURE 12-10 Electrical diagram of series motor. Notice that the series field is identified as S1 and S2.

The amount of current that passes through the winding determines the amount of torque the motor shaft can produce. Since the series field is made of large conductors, it can carry large amounts of current and produce large torques. For example, the starter motor that is used to start an automobile's engine is a series motor and it may draw up to 500 A when it is turning the engine's crankshaft on a cold morning. Series motors used to power hoists or cranes may draw currents of thousands of amperes during operation."


On another thread I created last night I was accused of being a "troll." I do not take kindly to that, and I believe your thread proves a point I was making on mine.

Electric carts are good for torque, not speed. Once you go that speed route by modifying the cart, just keep breaking out $100 bills until you replace all the electrical parts in it, or trade the cart for a gasser.
You are doing some good research and bringing some good reference. But his problem is not speed but low end inefficiency which converts amperage into heat in high torque situations where amperage draw is highest. At speed he would be fine with extra passengers.... very little additional power is needed to keep the rolling with 800 or 1000 pounds once rolling on the flats.
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Unread 11-08-2015, 02:06 PM   #10
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Default Re: Motor Running Hot

Quote:
Originally Posted by fiddlerabbit View Post
Thanks to all. I'm not sure what a regen is. I think torque is what I need. The motor and controller get overheated with 4 people fairly slow, through some dry ditches, etc. What do I need to keep the motor and controller from running hot with this load?
Which make and model 400 control do you have installed now?
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