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Unread 12-27-2015, 09:51 AM   #1
MC1
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Default Bad MCOR or something else?

Trying to get the cart up and running. 2006 Precedent

Replaced all the batteries with 6-8v system. New solenoid, new tow/run switch, dioide, pre charge resistor, new f&r switch, new battery cables, new fuse.

Completely removed the OBC and jumped it (to get it out of lockout mode)
Key switch also is working.

Reading 50v on the dash voltmeter (also new).

I do get a beep in reverse.

Jumped the motor with a 12v battery and the motor spins.

But car does not move. I do NOT hear the soleniod "click" at all when accelerator is pressed.

Bad MCOR or controller? MCOR is original. The Curtis 1510 controller is also original.
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Unread 12-27-2015, 10:06 AM   #2
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Default Re: Bad MCOR or something else?

Solenoid not clicking is a problem. Below is content copied from the Carts Unlimited troubleshooting stuff.


T1. Solenoid does not click.

The solenoid activation circuit is pretty simple. The solenoid will click (close) when (+) and (-) are present at the 2 small terminals. This is true in all electric carts. The solenoid will open when the presence of either (+) or (-) is removed.
Hence the simple on & off operation.
Use the meter to determine which side (+) or (-) is missing when the gas is pressed.
Then use the meter to back track the supply for the missing side and see where it stops. Remember the (-) is constant. and the (+) side comes from the pot ms, which is supplied by the F&R ms, which is supplied by the key-switch, which is fed from the main (+)
​Close inspection and testing should locate the problem. The solenoid must click closed for the cart to run.
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Unread 12-27-2015, 12:33 PM   #3
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Default Re: Bad MCOR or something else?

I think I'm missing it at the OBC removal/bypass

Got some different information- when you COMPLETELY REMOVE the OBC, at the remaining 6 pin harness do you:
1) splice only the the red and blue together?
2) splice only the blue and white together?
3) connect the red white and blue together?
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Unread 12-28-2015, 08:15 AM   #4
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Default Re: Bad MCOR or something else?

Red and blue together. It's pin 2 and pin 6. Everything else is irrelevant.
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Unread 12-28-2015, 09:37 AM   #5
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Default Re: Bad MCOR or something else?

The reverse buzzer working is a good thing, it proves that:
  1. The Tow/Run switch is working.
  2. The FNR switch is working (at least the reverse position).
  3. The OBC circuit is not in lockout mode (by-pass is working).

As far as the OBC, both the Red and White wires can be used to provide a +48v source for the Blue wire.

In the OLD Regen systems, the OBC actually powered part of the circuit, but in the Precedent, it only provides a low current signal to the controller.

I prefer the White wire because when the Tow/Run switch is on Tow, it has no voltage and therefore cannot provide a parasitic current drain through the controller.

If the cart was working before the changes, the most likely cause would be the diode is installed backwards, unfortunately that can also damage the controller.

Make sure the end of the diode with the stripe is towards the Light Blue wire, +48v from the key switch.

If that is OK, test the MCOR switch to make sure is working.
Remove the 2-pin connector from the MCOR and put a large paper clip jumping the 2-pins in the harness connector.

Make sure there is +48v at the jumper when the key switch is ON.
Try to run the cart.

The Solenoid test procedure posted (and theory of operation) is for the much simpler Series system.

The Sepex system is more complicated and requires a few more signals at the correct time for the controller to provide the negative connection on the Blue/White wire.

The Solenoid coil positive side (Light Blue wire) is the constant +48v from the Key Switch.

The Solenoid Negative side (Blue/White wire) is provided by the Controller when all the circuits are working and the controller gets the correct signals.
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Unread 12-28-2015, 12:17 PM   #6
MC1
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Default Re: Bad MCOR or something else?

I'm going to redo the bypass blue/white connection. Maybe in my rush, I just did not get a good connections.

The diode is a club car diode, so where the diode wiring separates, blue is going to the tow switch, red going to the 6pin harness for an OBC connection.

Could I have the tow switch hooked up "backward" ? I used a new in the box marine grade toggle switch that I had available (see photo) vs. having to search for one specific to club cars. I identified which way the switch is thrown (i.e. away from the wires) for the switch to be open (in tow), But maybe the wires are connected backwards?
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Last edited by MC1; 12-28-2015 at 12:52 PM.. Reason: added diode pic.
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Unread 12-28-2015, 12:27 PM   #7
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Default Re: Bad MCOR or something else?

The OBC by-pass is fine otherwise the reverse buzzer would not work on reverse.

The Tow/Run switch is also fine for the same reason above, it also has no specific polarity.

That particular harness diode, according to the manual, is only present on the models made for the European market.

In any event, the diode is also working or the FNR switch would have no power as the diode provides power to the Tow/Run switch that in turn provides power to the FNR switch.

Make sure You connected the wires and the diode that goes on the solenoid coil correctly when you replaced the solenoid.

If it is correct, do the MCOR microswitch by-pass.
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Unread 12-29-2015, 05:11 PM   #8
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Default Re: Bad MCOR or something else?

Double checked all the connections. Jumped the MCOR with a paperclip. No movement no change in the volts on the meter.

I'm thinking either not getting power to the mcor, or just a bad mcor.
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Unread 12-29-2015, 05:30 PM   #9
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Default Re: Bad MCOR or something else?

Did You measure the voltage at the paper clip jumper to make sure You were getting +48v from the key switch to the MCOR micro-switch?

To test if the MCOR wiper is getting the correct voltage, disconnect the 3-pin plug from the MCOR and measure the voltages on the harness plug:
From White/Black wire (positive probe) to pack negative = 5v
From pack positive (positive probe) to Purple wire = 48v
If the voltages are fine, test the resistance of the MCOR wiper by measuring on the MCOR pins that correspond to the wire colors:
From White/Black to Yellow, Pedal Up to Pedal Down = 6.8kΩ-1kΩ
Those are all approximate numbers.
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Unread 12-30-2015, 07:38 PM   #10
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Default Re: Bad MCOR or something else?

I'll check all the voltage and resistance as I did not do that when i tried the jump. But I think I'm not getting voltage to the MCOR, which means a wire is bad or a bad connection.

I've yet to run 12v power to the dash to check the light kit we are installing and radio install-just got the 48v to 12v converter-could that be the issue? Going to also change out the key switch since we are putting in a new dash.
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