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Unread 12-29-2015, 05:49 PM   #1
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Default How can I wire Scotty B's 30 amp 48v to 12v reducer to oem wiring harness?

I have installed Scotty B's reducer per his enclosed instructions and it has been working perfectly for running a 12" light bar and a couple of LED lights that are just for decoration. But once the time changed and we started to use the golf cart at night to get to and from my wife's work to check on her patients we noticed that the cart's headlights were getting very dim by the time we would start home. The yellow caution light would also come on by the time we would get back home. The LED light seemed unaffected when we switched it on by the warning light coming on and the cart's light becoming dim. So this got me thinking if the oem reducer was still connected and was there a way to hook my oem harness to Scotty B's reducer to utilize the entire battery pack to run the cart's lights. I found the oem reducer (photo 1) and noted that it was connected to the B- lug on the controller and the other side was split and connected to what appeared to be a fuse block (photo 2) where the other wires going to it run back to the oem wiring harness. Also, I found that a fuse block on the front frame of the battery pack (photo 3) has a red wire that is coming out of it that is connected to the #5 positive battery terminal. I disconnected this wire and I had no power to the headlights and tail lights. That being said; can I just run the red wire from the cart fuse block to the positive side of Scotty B's reducer and run a wire from the cart fuse block where the oem reducer two wires were attached? Any help with this is greatly appreciated.
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Unread 12-29-2015, 06:11 PM   #2
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Default Re: How can I wire Scotty B's 30 amp 48v to 12v reducer to oem wiring harness?

The OEM. reducer is powered thru negative side. The wire going toward front of cart feeds a ground block. Remove wires from both ends.You will not reconnect anything to controller.
Run a wire from battery negative to ground block,
Remove red wire from positive battery post.
Remove red wire from fuse block.
Run wire from your new convertor to fuse block.
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Unread 12-29-2015, 08:10 PM   #3
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Default Re: How can I wire Scotty B's 30 amp 48v to 12v reducer to oem wiring harness?

To remove the OEM reducer cut the two black wires going to it and splice them together.
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Unread 12-29-2015, 08:17 PM   #4
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Default Re: How can I wire Scotty B's 30 amp 48v to 12v reducer to oem wiring harness?

Thanks for the quick reply to my question. I am just going to make sure that I understand what you said in your reply. So, disconnect the oem reducer and the red wire from the fuse block on the golf cart. Then connect a wire from the negative ground from the fuse block of the Scotty B's converter to the fuse block of the golf cart where the oem converter was connected and then connect another wire from the fuse block (red wire) to the positive fuse bock on Scotty B's reducer. Hope I got it right and thanks again for your help with this.
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Unread 12-29-2015, 10:29 PM   #5
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Default Re: How can I wire Scotty B's 30 amp 48v to 12v reducer to oem wiring harness?

A black wire goes from ground to ground block(PIC #2)
It can come from controller, reducer or battery ground.
Red wire from reducer to fuse block. (PIC #3)
I would suggest cleaning contacts on ground block.
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Unread 12-29-2015, 11:01 PM   #6
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Default Re: How can I wire Scotty B's 30 amp 48v to 12v reducer to oem wiring harness?

I think in Pic#2:
The black wire with the Yellow sleeve goes to his headlight/taillight wiring.
The other 2 black wires on the same cable are from the OEM reducer.
On a Club Car with a working OBC, all negative wires must come from the Controller B- (so the OBC can measure the discharge current).

You can only have a single cable on the pack negative battery post and it must go through the OBC.

Verify that the black wire with the yellow sleeve goes to the headlight circuit.

Disconnect that wire and put it to one of the negative terminals of your new Fuse box.

Disconnect the Red wire on Pic#3 that goes to battery #5 and connect it to one of the positive terminals of your new fuse box (use a 15 or 20 amp fuse).

Remove the OEM reducer and negative terminal block.

Make sure Your new ScottyB converter negative is connected to Controller B- and not directly to pack negative.
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Unread 12-30-2015, 06:56 AM   #7
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Default Re: How can I wire Scotty B's 30 amp 48v to 12v reducer to oem wiring harness?

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Unread 12-30-2015, 08:20 AM   #8
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Default Re: How can I wire Scotty B's 30 amp 48v to 12v reducer to oem wiring harness?

And put the old reducer in the for sale section
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Unread 12-30-2015, 08:47 AM   #9
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Default Re: How can I wire Scotty B's 30 amp 48v to 12v reducer to oem wiring harness?

Thank you Muddog, Sergio, and CTD for helping me out with this issue. It's raining here again today (imagine that) so after I get some coffee in me I will head out in the garage and see about getting the old reducer off the cart and getting the lights hooked up to the new reducer from Scotty B's. I have already verified that the yellow sleeved wires are part of the headlight circuit and already have my new reducer hooked up to the B- terminal of the controller as Sergio has recommended. So, I should have things up and running by this afternoon. Will post back and let you know how the headlights/cart perform after our ride up and back from my wife's work tonight (weather permitting). Thanks again guys.
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Unread 12-31-2015, 07:12 PM   #10
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Default Re: How can I wire Scotty B's 30 amp 48v to 12v reducer to oem wiring harness?

OK, got everything hooked up as Sergio had instructed and removed old reducer and everything seems to be working fine and the test run yesterday evening went just fine. Yellow light still came on at the end of the ride Lights now turn off when the key is turned off and that is a good thing for me. The only thing that I noticed is that when I remove the charger cord from the golf cart the yellow light comes on for a couple of seconds.
I checked the voltage at pack, at full charge and reads 50.8 and then took the reading of each battery and they all read 8.4. Any ideas as to why I am getting the yellow light? Also, after our ride, about 10-12 miles round trip the pack voltage was at 48.8. Again, thanks guys for any ideas that you might have about this.
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