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Unread 02-28-2016, 01:08 PM   #1
Getting Wild
 
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Default Battery cables

So im changing my battery cables on my 05 CC precedent, now do just leave that ground wire in the obc or do i cut it out. Im still using the obc. What do you guys think?


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Unread 02-28-2016, 01:16 PM   #2
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Default Re: Battery cables

Are you upgrading to a larger gauge?
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Unread 03-02-2016, 01:24 AM   #3
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Default

Upgrading from factory to a 2 ga cables


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Unread 03-02-2016, 03:00 AM   #4
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Default Re: Battery cables

Quote:
From 1995 - 2014 Club Car used an OBC to control the battery charging system. The main (-) battery cable runs through this computer

The OEM cable end must be cut off to remove the cable and a double ended stud is installed in the hole so a new cable can be attached at each side of the OBC.
carts unlimited sells the entire kit

http://www.cartsunlimited.net/battery-cable-sets.html
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Unread 03-02-2016, 08:52 AM   #5
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Default Re: Battery cables

Yep, 2 gauge wire will not fit through the OBC, so you must use a stud.
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Unread 03-02-2016, 04:32 PM   #6
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Default

Can i just go around or over obc and leave old cable in there?


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Unread 03-02-2016, 04:38 PM   #7
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Default Re: Battery cables

No don't leave the old in AND bypass. Use the stud kit or leave as is. If u want the technical why need to wait for Sergio.
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Unread 03-02-2016, 05:00 PM   #8
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Default Re: Battery cables

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sergio View Post
I think You should have a single wire going thru the OBC or a STUD, and here is why:

The club car service manual describes the function of the OBC as:



I don't know if the OBC has always worked this way, maybe someone else can chime in and tell us what year this verbiage first appeared in the service manuals.

For the Club Car claim above to be correct, the OBC must be able to measure the current being drawn from the battery.

The only way that can happen is by the OBC sensing the current going thru the hall effect sensor (hole) in the middle of the OBC.

If a second wire is run parallel to the one going thru the OBC, the amount of current drawn from the battery will be split according to ohms law.

A 4ga wire has about 1/2 of the resistance of a 6ga wire. A 2ga wire has about 1/3 of the resistance of a 6ga wire.

The current will be inversely proportional to the resistance, so the lower the resistance, the higher the current.

Assuming a 60amp draw during cruising speed and a 4ga wire in addition to the 6ga thru the OBC, the current will be split:
6ga wire = 20amps
4ga wire = 40 amps

So the OBC will only know about the 20amps that it could measure.

I assume this information is used during the 2nd phase of the charging process (absorption) to know how long it needs to run.

I am sure there are so many variables involved on how each individual user runs their cart as to be near impossible to describe what if any ill effects will it have by not using the system the way it was designed.

but, why take a chance?

Install the stud, it is really simple.

I got my parts from lowes....

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Unread 03-03-2016, 12:17 PM   #9
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Default Re: Battery cables

I tried sourcing parts at my local Ace hardware and they seemed to not have much in the way of parts. They had a 1/4-20 brass flat head bolt and corresponding nuts. Is it recommended to use brass or will a grade 8 bolt offer similar conductivity? Do you happen to remember the particular length or size bolt that you used? I didn't bring one of the 3/8 cable lugs at the time so wasn't sure if that was going to be too loose of a fit going with the 1/4-20. Thanks.
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Unread 03-03-2016, 01:48 PM   #10
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Default Re: Battery cables

All Your cable lugs should be 5/16", the only 3/8" lugs are on some High current Solenoids and reversing contactors.

The bolt is a U.S. Brass 5/16" 3-1/2" from Lowes hardware store in the "specialty hardware" section.

If that fails You can always get a 5/16 brass toilet flange bolt.

Lowes also carries the brass lock-washers, regular washers and neoprene washers in the same department section.

I put all of the nuts on the bolt and lined them up even, placed the assembly on a bench vise squeezing the nuts and cut the bolt head with a hack saw.

I then "locked" two of the nuts together, held them with a wrench and ran the other two out of the end I just cut in order to clean the threads.

Wrap a few turns of electric tape on about 1 inch on the center of the bolt and You are done.
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