Stereo memory help

brunson67

I installed a CD player in my 48 volt club car. Everything is done and sounds great. Im running a 48 to 12 volt reducer from scottyb, and I have it switched to turn it off when not running the cart. Problem, I lose all of my settings every time I turn the reducer off. Any tricks out there to overcome this, or just deal with it? Thanks

BGW

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fotofx

Most stereos have three hot wires going to them.

A constant hot that stores your memory and settings
A switched hot that actually turns the stereo on and off
A illumination hot that operates the lighting (tap off the running lights if you have a light kit, usually brown wire)

Sounds like you do not have the constant hot connected to a constant 12 volt because you are turning off the reducer.

Sergio

First a quick clarification:

The +12v constant high current wire (ussualy yellow) provides 100% of all the power requirements for the Radio.

The +12v switched low current wire (usually red) provides a trigger signal to turn the radio ON/OFF

You can convert Your existing system (for less than $10) to provide both a Constant Power output for the Radio and a switched power output to feed Your fuse box for all of the other accessories that You want to turn OFF with the key switch.

This is a link to the diagram, but You can read the entire thread for more information:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1092226

fotofx

Yes, I should have made that clear.

bsikes09

I would get the MadJax converter, it's made for this exact purpose with a constant +12v output. And it is a 30amp cap.

brunson67

Thanks Sergio, I new I had read this post before, but couldn't locate it last night. I do have some further questions regarding to never use the negative post of the battery pack for anything, but instead the B- off of the controller. I currently have the voltage reducer wired per the instructions, using the #6 negative from the battery pack for the converter, as well as both of my voltage meters, digital numerical readout, and the standard bar graph type. Im a little worried about how I wired everything,, and I'm just getting ready to wire up a buddies cart using the same 30 amp voltage reducer set up. Can I send you a PM?

Sergio

The main reason to wire all negatives to the Controller B- is so all the current must pass through the OBC where it can count its usage.

Yes you can send a PM or post the question here if you think it could be relevant to other members.

brunson67

Hey Sergio - If you don't mind, can you explain in more detail exactly why you shouldn't pull from the negative side of the pack, versus pulling from the B- of the controller? What does it affect or have a negative impact on. I know you stated you go through the B- so all the current can pass through the OBC so it can count its usage, but not exactly sure what that means.

See below for wiring for the 30 amp 48 to 12 volt reducer.
1. Black wire - 48 volts negative, goes to #6 negative battery pack, or B- of controller?
Is the B- the large cable connection on the controller? I then will wire this to a negative buss bar for all accessory grounds.
2. Red wire - 48 volts positive into converter. Is this where I put a break in the circuit to
install a switch to allow the converter to be turned on/off?
3. Green wire - 12 volts out - run to positive buss bar to feed accessories.
4. Yellow wire - ?

teecro

What that means is that if you have connections tapped on the battery side of the OBC then the OBC can not see that energy being used. If it can't see the energy being used it does not know that it has been used. It will in the end your batteries will not receive a full charge because of it.

brunson67

Okay, got it, so anything creating a draw should not go to the battery side of the obc, what about the voltage meters, etc. , since they are only reading, they should be okay, correct?