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Unread 04-13-2016, 01:40 PM   #51
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Default Re: Electrical questions (voltmeter and voltage reducers)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aauman88 View Post
That wiring job is impressive. My wife swears i am OCD and she recently sent me this picture that my sister said was me.

Absolutely nothing wrong with this install. This guy is my hero!
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Unread 04-13-2016, 02:53 PM   #52
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Default Re: Electrical questions (voltmeter and voltage reducers)

Mine too
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Unread 04-14-2016, 08:01 PM   #53
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You two just need to fly to Florida and sort all this out for me as I'm sure mine will look like the before pic not the after


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Unread 04-15-2016, 01:10 AM   #54
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Default Re: Electrical questions (voltmeter and voltage reducers)

Haha, I'm only hour and a half from FL line
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Unread 04-15-2016, 08:44 AM   #55
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Dumb question; there is no way to run 2 circuits through the existing key switch is there? I'm 99.999% sure that I can't but just wanted to make sure.

Trying to map out space and if I can avoid putting in a master kill switch for the separate 12v circuit it will be cleaner.


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Unread 04-15-2016, 08:54 AM   #56
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Default Re: Electrical questions (voltmeter and voltage reducers)

Nope, not the stock key you can't. There are switches available that can though.
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Unread 04-15-2016, 08:56 AM   #57
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Default Re: Electrical questions (voltmeter and voltage reducers)

Yes You can, but if Your converter does not have a "trigger" wire, You need a $5 48v coil relay to turn it ON/OFF with the key switch.
Making a 4 wire Voltage Reducer "keyed"?
If You are using a separate 12v battery for the accessories, just run the 12v positive from the AUX battery through the Normally Open contacts of the relay.
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Unread 04-15-2016, 01:04 PM   #58
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Default Re: Electrical questions (voltmeter and voltage reducers)

Good one Sergio, I still say he can't run two circuits through the key switch but you have definitely solved his problem by triggering another relay. Sorry to tell him no right away, should have thought it through
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Unread 04-17-2016, 08:44 PM   #59
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Thx,

Tell me if I'm doing my math right before I waste a lot of time and energy.

Plan on using a optima blue top d31M which can run 50 amps for 112 minutes or 100 amps for 52 minutes.

Connected to it will be a head unit (15 amp fuse), 2 amps (40 amps each), lights (10 amps total) and gauges (5 amps). Those amp ratings are based on the safety fuses needed not draw. The amp manufacturer tells me that at the 4 ohm load (not 1/2) I shouldn't pull more than 10 each.

So is my math / thinking correct? 15+40+40+ 10 + 5 = 110 MAX LOAD which will still let me run it all for 45+ minutes correct?


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