48v ds sometimes wont move

mwollerman2011

i have a 48v ds that sometimes doesn't want to move when you hit the accelerator pedal I was looking for the resistance specs on the mcor itself to test it cant find anything and the micro switch inside it is working like its suppose to it tests fine but the other side of it idk if its working properly and it only does like every 3 times you hit the pedal it wont move and you gotta hit it a couple of times then it will take off

BGW

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mini@avette

I had a similar problem on my 95 DS. My solinoid would in gage but cart wouldn't move. This wouldn't happen all the time and sometimes besides not running at all it would run slow. It took me almost 6 months of find the problem but make sure the mcor plug is clean but my problem was the small wires connected to the controller. I removed them and cleaned the connections and problem has been sesolved for over a year.

mwollerman2011

yea that's what Im goin to look at it in the morning got pulled off of it this afternoon so ill go back to it tomorrow I have a feeling that the mcor itself has a bad spot in it as well but I don't wanna spend all that money on a mcor if it don't fix it so Ill check the connections at the controller and the back side of the connectors at the mcor and see what I find

timmyjane

Having the same problem with my EZGO. Someone suggested tightening the FR switch to make better contact. Dont know if you have one or not.

JaycoGoGo

My 2008 sometimes does this, especially after putting it in forward after going in reverse, especially if I flip the switch too fast.

mwollerman2011

ill look into cleaning the contacts at f/r switch found the contacts on the mcor to be corroded should I change the mcor or jst try clean up the contacs

MDLNB

97 CC DS 48volt

Mine started doing that. I would back out of the garage and then it refused to go forward. Heard a click when I hit the pedal but nothing else. Kept working the forward and reverse switch back and forth and hitting the pedal and eventually it would lurch forward and then run ok. Yesterday, after going through the same thing, I went a few miles to get a hair cut. I had a little problem when I left to come back. Once I got back, I checked around the cabling and could not touch the blue cable at the F&R switch that goes to the S2 on the motor.

I plan to replace the cable and clean the F&R contact real well. Hopefully, that's all that's wrong with it. Anyone know where I can get a 4 gauge replacement? I have already replaced my battery cables with 4 gauge. It's the blue wire, about 48 inches or so.

timmyjane

I just ordered the crimpers, ends and some wire. I would have to get some more wire but could make you a cable. It would be 2AWG and a yellow wire. Probably cost about $15. Id guess around $7-9 to ship from SC to FL.

MDLNB

Thanks, I appreciate it but I ordered one. Not blue, it's red but it will do. It's 2 gauge. If that works out ok, I'll probably replace the others that go to the motor. I have a feeling that it's going to be the dirty connection more than the bad wiring. When I replaced the micro switches on the F&R switch, I got in a hurry and sprayed the other contacts with cleaner but didn't take the cables off to clean them. I believe that my cable got hot because of the poor connection and may have damaged it. At any rate, I am going to replace it. Yesterday, I sprayed some contact cleaner on the F&R switch at the cable connections and worked them a bit by hand. Then I drove it out of the garage and up the street and back with no problem. Not enough to check the cable for heat but it didn't hesitate when I put it in forward this time. I hope it is as simple as this and not something more expensive. Half the time, I feel like I am working on my Harley when I look for parts for this thing. Nothing seems to go for less than a hundred bucks, minimum. It would be a treat to have a fifteen dollar cable be my source of trouble this time. It should arrive on Friday, so I should know this weekend if this fixes it.

I probably should have replaced the cables when I swapped out the battery cables from 6 to 4 gauge. And I did swap out the old Curtis for a 400 amp Curtis controller also. One of these days, I'll gt around to upgrading all the wiring.

This is a great site for information. I just want to thank all you guys for sharing your expertise. You have saved me a lot of money, and I am on a retired, fixed income. Thank you.

mwollerman2011

I changed my F/R switch assembly now I get a solenoid click but it still wont move so I tested the solenoid its good none of the wires to the motor look burnt or anything has a brand new mcor off of another cart as well