Replacement of F&R switch?

MDLNB

97 CC DS 48 volt, F&R switch with three micro switches

Can anyone point me in the direction of some pointers on replacing the F&R switch, so that I don't make a simple but foolish mistake when I change mine out? I was thinking that it may just need cleaning, but one cable is too hot to touch and I get a bit of smoke from it after driving it a bit. Sometimes it won't even go forward. The blue cable going to the S2 on the motor is the one that is getting real hot when I run it, IF it will start forward at all.

If someone could just point me in the right direction, I would appreciate it. If not, maybe if you can just advise me as to whether or not I need to disconnect anything before working on it, such as the battery pack or what not.

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

scottyb

Most likely your F&R switch is bad. If the cable got too hot to touch the contact it connects to also got too hot to touch, likely from an arc at the internal connections. I suggest CC92F heavy duty F&R

MDLNB

Thanks, I'll look into rounding one of those up.

MDLNB

I'm going to go ahead and replace the F&R on my Club Car DS. Any tips? Is there anything that I should be aware of so that I don't hose something up? Is there a proper sequence to the installation, or is it pretty much, just take the old out and put the new in? Does it matter what cables or wires to the micro switches get installed first or last?

scottyb

For safety disconnect a main + or - cable first and reconnect it last.
Mark all your F&R micro switch wires BEFORE removing them so they can go back on in the proper places.

If you get the CC92F from cartsunlimited.net you will get a color coded picture diagram showing where each wire goes on each switch

tag50

I'd put masking tape flags near the ends of each large cable and write on the flag where each cable was attached (i.e. rotator right, rotator left, body top, body bottom).

Then with the m/s wires still attached, free the F/R s/w from the cart body.

Mount the new F/R and transfer the m/s wires one at a time to the new F/R.

Finish by connecting the large cables to the new F/R according to the position noted on each flag.

When I was installing elevators we labeled everything. Sometimes hundreds of wires.

.

scottyb

Another trick I use is colored tape. Put a piece of red, blue, white, green tape on each big cable then take a cel-phone pic....disassemble & reference the pic for reassembly.

MDLNB

Thanks for all the tips. I knew I could count on the experience from you guys. My primary concern was the possibility of shorting something out. Thanks again.

MDLNB

Ok, soooo.....I took off the F&R switch and put on the new cable to the S-2 connection on the motor. The old wire looked OK, so I examined the switch with it off and lo and behold that sucka was melted. Guess that answered the question of the burnt smell and hot cable. I think the smoke, the last time I drove it and checked was a good indicator that it was going bad. That and the fact that it was next to impossible to get the thing to move forward. The contact pad (for lack of proper term) was recessed where it had melted and started to sink. No wonder it wouldn't get any spark. So, 12 wires and cables later, I tested it and it runs fine. I guess it was too much to ask for it to go faster, huh? I wish I would have ordered replacement 4gauge cables for the other three cables connected to the switch, but you know what they say about hindsight. I did not realize how loose the old switch was.

But, I still can't do wheelies yet....

Attached Images

	1227151458.jpg (135.3 KB, 0 views)
	Front.jpg (128.9 KB, 0 views)