|04-07-2016, 10:39 AM||#1|
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2015
Club Car IQ - Solenoid or 1510 Controller?
First, let me give you the run down of the scenario.
This is a 99 NQ Club Car, known as the "Pathway". From what I understand it was Club Car's failed attempt at an NEV. They sat, and then they were updated with the IQ system. For all purposes, this is a standard IQ system with F/N/R toggle switch and a Curtis 1510 Controller.
Here is the link to download the Club Car IQ troubleshooting pin-out pdf in hopes to help anybody else.
This unit had been sitting for three years without batteries. I installed new batteries in it, correctly of course, while in tow mode. After everything was connected securely, I connected the charger to "wake-up" the OBC for about an hour. I then disconnected the charger and flipped the unit in to run mode. The cart motor jumped and I flipped it in to forward and depressed the throttle, absolutely nothing. No solenoid click, no reverse buzzer, nothing. I flipped back to tow and then to run, no motor jump this time. No auto hill slide brake either.
I proceeded with the OBC/Controller reset functions: flipped to tow, disconnected negative battery cable, flipped to run, key switch on, selected reverse, throttle for 30 seconds (no reverse buzzer dimming out by the way) and then key off, neutral, flipped to tow, reconnected negative battery cable, and flipped to run. No changes.
From here I followed the attached pinout. Cart rear wheels jacked up, run mode, key on and throttle fully depressed with a brace. I had 51V of pack voltage at the Tan, Brown, Green, and Gray wires. Oddly having 49.9V on the Light Blue wire from the OBC (which controls lockout mode). Possible resistance passing through the OBC? Considering it a non-issue, because I would assume that 49.9 Volts would be enough to let the controller know everything is good to go.
On to the solenoid activation coming from PIN 12, Blue/White wire is supposed to pull to ground, or "pull low". On this wire, disconnected from the solenoid I have 7.5 Volts. Is this considered "pulling low"? Or should it be a positive 0 Volts? When the wire is connected to the solenoid, it reads battery pack voltage at 51V, not 7.5V anymore.
I jumped the two large posts on the solenoid, no change. I am assuming either because the controller is bad or it is in a fault mode because the solenoid is bad.
From here it is either solenoid or controller. Solenoid is on order and should see it tomorrow. Just thought I would throw this out there for consideration and suggestion or deep reflection on a complicated system.
And no, there is no LED indicator light on this 1510 Curtis... nor do I have the handheld set to read any possible codes.
Thanks for reading!
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|04-07-2016, 12:16 PM||#2|
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Charlotte, NC
Re: Club Car IQ - Solenoid or 1510 Controller?
To reset the OBC on the IQ cart you just need to disconnect the pack negative for more than 10 minute. There is no other action needed.
When measuring the voltage on Pin #12, (Blue/White wire), the correct procedure is to measure from that pin to Pack Positive.
When/If the controller activates the solenoid, you will get pack voltage.
The only other voltage reading You need to take is on the MCOR output to the controller.
The controller also needs to see the proper throttle voltage level from the MCOR in order to activate the solenoid.
Measure the voltage on Pin #2 (yellow wire), it should vary from 0v to 5v (approximately) from Pedal up to Pedal down.
If it does, it looks like the controller is bad as every condition has been met for the Controller to activate the solenoid.
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