Curtis 1268-5403 stuck in low speed

ctbeutel

I recently acquired a Zone Electric 48v car with a curtis 1268-5403 controller in it. The cart drives forward and reverse but the top speed going forward is roughly 3.5mph. I get a code 2,4 from the controller, MAIN DRIVER ON Main, contactor coil held low. Reasons: 1. Main contactor missing or wire to coil
open. 2. Controller defective.

I can hear the contactor connect and I put a volt meter on the leads and its definitely hot. Before I replace the controller or send it off to be repaired i was wondering if anybody else has experienced this with a curtis controller.

Thanks for any help.

BGW

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scooterman

Sounds like the controller from what your saying, I guess you have a reader? Have you checked all of the wiring?

ctbeutel

The code I'm getting is from the flashing led on the controller itself. I do have the software to adjust the settings but I need a part to connect my laptop to it. I figure I'll try and reset everything once the wire comes in. If that doesn't work then I'll send it off to get repaired.

Anybody ever hear of Cloud Electric? The offer a repair service for $337. Any suggestions for repair shops are appreciated too.

scooterman

That is expensive for a 500 controller, I don't know if i'd do that. I think you need a special reader for the Curtis controllers, they are expensive.

tag50

Check out these guys--

http://www.fsip.biz/index.html

They rebuild Curtis and have great support pages and are a site sponsor.


.

ctbeutel

Thanks for the info on FSIP. I gave them a call and they were very helpful and gave me one more area to trouble shoot. If that's not it, I am sending the controller to them for repair.

mjroman20

When reading blink codes I usually investigate the numbers both ways just to make sure. If you do not have a handheld I would consider a 4,2 code as well since you said the contactor coil was hot. A 4,2 is a driver over-current which could mean the coil impedance of your solenoid may be too low. I have seen issues with the 1268s used with solenoids with low impedance coils. I usually suggest sticking with one at least 200ohms.

I would think this is the more likely code over the 2,4 since you say it is actually closing it would be contradictory to the description of the 2,4 which is missing wire, in which case it wouldn't close. Does this solenoid have a pre-charge resistor on it? If so it needs to come off.

firepfeiffer

i'm not saying this is the same problem, but when i hooked up my 1268, new coil, new wires etc, i hooked up a little yellow wire to the wrong spot on my coil, the 1268 went into limp mode (i was told it does that to protect itself) and flashed a code, i'm not 100% sure, but i'm pretty sure it was the same 2,4 code. the coil would click everytime i hit the run/tow switch (which it shouldn't do). i moved the wire to the correct place and no more problems. if you acquired the cart in this condition, maybe the previous owner didn't hook it up correctly.

ctbeutel

That's interesting about the yellow wire. There was a wire with a broken terminal and using the wiring diagram from the 1268 manual I thought I got it back to the right place but maybe not. Where did you end up placing it? Thanks.