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Unread 07-14-2016, 03:15 PM   #1
Gone Wild
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 264
Default Voltage reducer & wiring diagram - fire away

Calling all wiring experts, thank you for all your help so far and I'm finally on the last draft.

I was going to use a aux battery but it turns out my golf cart dash area is too shallow so I'm going with 2 voltage reducers instead. In a year or two I'm going to upgrade to a leaf pack and an aux battery so the voltmeter is planning for the past / future.

Please take a look and let me know your thoughts.

A couple of things to consider / questions..

1) I'm using the remote turn on feature of the jL audio blue tooth receiver to turn on the amps and processor. As such there is no master kill switch on the amps.

2) the switches are led duck bills rated to 12v 25a so no need for relays. They are lit when on (separate negative out of each)

3) I have a buss bar rated to 200a (supposedly). Would it be ok to run all negative lines (including amps) to it and have one line back to the battery pack? If so wire gauge?

4) right now each reducer has a direct line from the battery pack as well. Is this the best idea or should they be daisy chained / split?

5) thinking of the madjax 30a reducer (or equivalent) for the smaller one. If it turns on and off via the existing key switch, I need a way to provide constant 12v (but low amperage) to the clock and GPS speedometer unit. Ideas? (Clock draws 0.1a and GPS is 25 micro amps)

6) any suggestions to clean up / simplify wiring?

7) I have 16 gauge all cooper primary wire to do all of this (except the thicker feeds / returns); that should be fine correct? Most of the runs will be less than 2 feet.

Thank you guys in advance you have all been awesome.

Amish

IMG_5840.jpgIMG_5841.jpgIMG_5842.jpg


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Unread 07-14-2016, 07:45 PM   #2
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Join Date: Mar 2016
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Default

Madjax told me the the blue constant on is 12v 10a so that should more than take care of the GPS and clock


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