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Unread 07-17-2016, 04:34 PM   #11
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Default Re: 95 36v car won't move, not the solenoid...

Gotcha. So when I pull up on the arm on the micro switch on the fwd/rev selector it does click so I guess that's good then. Would the next spot to check be the speed control assembly that the gas pedal is linked to or is there something else before that to check? And thanks for all the help so far, it's not running yet but at least I'm learning
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Unread 07-17-2016, 04:48 PM   #12
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Default Re: 95 36v car won't move, not the solenoid...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomahawk View Post
And I am currently reading 33.4 volts from the pack which is also the same reading at the two large posts on the solenoid
Those babies are off the chart dead. Start there. I'm guessing the solenoid says 36v. on it and you're trying to trigger it with 33.4v.

PS- controller doesn't like 33.4v. either
.

Last edited by tag50; 07-17-2016 at 04:50 PM.. Reason: PS
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Unread 07-17-2016, 05:42 PM   #13
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Default Re: 95 36v car won't move, not the solenoid...

...

Last edited by Tomahawk; 07-17-2016 at 05:43 PM.. Reason: Repost
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Unread 07-17-2016, 05:48 PM   #14
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Default Re: 95 36v car won't move, not the solenoid...

Okay so that's good to know also that 33.4 is gonna qualify as dead. What the minimum voltage that the cart can run on then? I assumed that they would still suffice since the voltage while driving would drop in between charges. Perhaps I need to also get schooled on how deep cycle batteries operate. It's also possible that I'm at the point of the day where stopping and starting fresh tomorrow is a good idea. Either way, thanks for the help. I'm sure once I get the basics down there's probably not much to these babies.
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Unread 07-17-2016, 07:22 PM   #15
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Default Re: 95 36v car won't move, not the solenoid...

You jumped the cart and you said it ran-33 volts is enough for it to run, it will run on less than that.
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Unread 07-18-2016, 12:01 PM   #16
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Default Re: 95 36v car won't move, not the solenoid...

Okay so with a fresh head today, new plan. Removing all batteries and charging to full charge. While they are out taking off each bolt and cleaning them up to make sure I have good connections and grounds.

On a side note, does anyone know the approx charge that the batteries need in order for the charger to turn on? The charger I have just plugs in and goes, no switches or timers.
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Unread 07-18-2016, 01:44 PM   #17
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Default Re: 95 36v car won't move, not the solenoid...

Generally for a 36v charger you need about 25v or more to close the relay and start charging. There are some chargers that will start with less, much less... depends upon the make & model. on the other end of the charge cycle - the charger should take this pack to about 44-46v before it cuts off and the pack should settle to 38.2v or so. I hope this helps...

P.S. most chargers can be jumpered to make them cone on when plugged into AC. It's not safe, I don't suggest it, but it can be done for a quick fix.
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Unread 07-18-2016, 02:39 PM   #18
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Default Re: 95 36v car won't move, not the solenoid...

thanks for the info. I really think before I do anything I need to charge these things up and make sure all my connections are good. I would imagine that whatever my power issue is that's cause the cart not to run could also be interfering with the charging system. Otherwise it's discouraging that at 30+ volts the charger didn't turn on.
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Unread 07-18-2016, 08:48 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomahawk View Post
Okay so that's good to know also that 33.4 is gonna qualify as dead. What the minimum voltage that the cart can run on then? I assumed that they would still suffice since the voltage while driving would drop in between charges. Perhaps I need to also get schooled on how deep cycle batteries operate. It's also possible that I'm at the point of the day where stopping and starting fresh tomorrow is a good idea. Either way, thanks for the help. I'm sure once I get the basics down there's probably not much to these babies.


33.4 is dead, if they were dry and uncharged for an unknown length of time they may not recover. Of course you should try though. Check the manufacturer of the pack and you can look up SOC charts that will tell you how close to "full" you are. For instance my 48v is off of 8v, if one 8v battery is below 8 I'm looking at 50% or so SOC.


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Unread 07-19-2016, 07:44 AM   #20
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Default Re: 95 36v car won't move, not the solenoid...

Been looking at diagrams from the manual. I think I was being a knucklehead when I was testing the solenoid. GCG had me tear for power to the solenoid which I think I did wrong. If I recall correctly, I did test for power later that day by going from battery to small post and had power. But with key on and pedal down had no power between the two small posts. So if I did just that, seems like a new solenoid is in my future, unless that test points to something else...
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