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Unread 09-15-2016, 05:30 PM   #1
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Default Rebuilt charger

2003, Club Car, Just had my charger repaired (relay)...with the cart battery voltage at 47.7 volts, I plugged up the repaired charger...NOTHING AMP METER NO MOVEENT"....But when I remove the DC plug from the cart, I hear a "Clink--Clunk/clink...Clumk"... So what do you think bad OBC??
Thanks,

-Bill
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Unread 09-15-2016, 06:40 PM   #2
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Default Re: Rebuilt charger

There is a post at the top of the page talking about by passing the OBC to check it for working, it may help you figure it out.
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Unread 09-15-2016, 09:14 PM   #3
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Default Re: Rebuilt charger

Charging System Troubleshooting: (Charger Won't Turn On)

*Use this troubleshooting guide to diagnose charging problems with 48 Volt Club Car vehicles.

*********** 1. The first step would be to make sure the vehicle has enough voltage to trigger the charger turn-on signal from the on-board computer. Check the battery voltage of the entire battery pack with a digital volt meter. Put the positive lead on the MAIN positive battery post and the negative lead on the MAIN negative battery post. Total voltage should be at least 36-38 Volts. If it's not, you must boost the batteries individually. Contact me for further instructions on how to do so. If you do not have a digital volt meter you can perform this test by attempting to run the vehicle. If the vehicle has enough energy to make the solenoid switch "click" and attempt to run, it also has enough energy to engage the charger relay. This step may be skipped.

*

*********** 2. The next step is to check all wiring. Locate the charger receptacle of the vehicle. On the back of the charger receptacle you will see three wires. Red is the positive. Black is the negative. Grey is the On-Board computer control wire. Make sure that the red wire is in good shape and follow it all the way to the MAIN positive battery post. Make sure there is a good connection on the battery and ensure that the wire isn't corroded or broken. If it is, clean it and re-attempt to charge the vehicle. The black wire is not at risk of corrosion because it is wired directly into the on-board computer. As for the grey wire, give it a light pull outward and ensure that isn't broken inside the charger receptacle. The grey wire will often break inside the receptacle and will easily pull out the back. If this happens, you must replace the receptacle.

*

*********** 3. If you have a Club Car DS or Carryall vehicle you will have two fuses to check near the charger receptacle. One is an inline fuse located on the grey control wire mentioned in step two. It is located inside a yellow rubber fuse holder. Pull the fuse holder apart and check the fuse with your meter to ensure that there is continuity. If the fuse is bad, replace it with a 3/8 amp fuse. Anything else will damage the charging system. There is also a larger fuse bolted to the back of the charger receptacle. You'll see that there are two black wires bolted to the back of the receptacle. This is where you'll find the fuse. On the opposite side you'll see a fuse element inside a plastic window. Check this fuse with a multimeter as well. On the continuity setting, place each lead of your multimeter on each of the nuts where the black wires are bolted to the back of the receptacle. If you have continuity, the fuse is good. If you don't, replace the fuse.

*

*********** 4. Check the charger relay. Pull the cover off of the charger and locate the relay. On PowerDrive 17930 models you'll find the relay on the bottom floor of the charger at the front. On PowerDrive2 22110 models you'll find it bolted to the front wall of the charger above the circuit breaker. Make sure both power cords are unplugged from the charger and pull the blue wire and red wire off of the charger relay. If you look closely at the relay you'll notice that there are four posts. Two large posts, and two small posts. These red and blue wires are plugged into the smaller two posts of the relay. Once you've gotten them unplugged, set your multimeter to check for DC voltage and insert the leads of the multimeter into the ends of these two wires that you unplugged from the relay. Plug the cord into the golf cart. It is not necessary to plug the other cord into the wall. Within 2-10 seconds of plugging the cord into the cart, you should see full battery voltage on the screen of your meter. If so, this is an indication that the on-board computer is communicating with the charger and commanding the relay to turn on. If your charger hasn't been "clicking" on, replace the relay. If you don't see a change in voltage on your screen when this test is performed, this is an indication that the on-board computer has failed and is no longer able to communicate with the charger. The on-board computer must be replaced.
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Unread 09-15-2016, 10:32 PM   #4
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Default Re: Rebuilt charger

Post #3 looks like Sticky material to me. Mods ???


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Unread 09-16-2016, 06:43 AM   #5
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Default Re: Rebuilt charger

x2
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Unread 09-16-2016, 01:02 PM   #6
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Default Re: Rebuilt charger

OK ...good stuff ...did the tesing as above...when checking the terminals where the BLUE and RED wires go into the relay, there was no voltage read when plugging the DC line into the cart...So guess ,its a bad..OBC


Guess I better read thru the STICKYS and see if there is a work-a round!!
Thanks
Guys

Bill in HOT Georgia!!
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Unread 09-16-2016, 01:46 PM   #7
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Default Re: Rebuilt charger

That should definitely be a sticky. I'm not sure how it's gone this long without becoming one...
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Unread 09-16-2016, 01:55 PM   #8
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Default Re: Rebuilt charger

Once again Dave you have completely amazed me with your knowledge of the club car systems and your total willingness to explain it in laymans terms for everybodys. Thank you for all that you do for to help.
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Unread 09-16-2016, 03:28 PM   #9
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Default Re: Rebuilt charger

Jake? CTD? got your PM's... I'll take care of it!
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Unread 09-16-2016, 03:31 PM   #10
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Default Re: Rebuilt charger

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