Relay installed off key for 48/12 reducer

Golferdave

Got the parts & time
Installed a 48v interposing relay to supply 48 v to
the MiC 48/12 voltage reducer to
Run small LED head/tail lights

Relay from Newark
http://www.newark.com/potter-brumfie...rfnonsku=false

1n4007 diode from amazon

Key +48 to relay coil
-48 to other side of coil (diode across these connections)

Batt +48 to rely contact, other contact to the +48 input to V-reducer

Key on, energizes relay, put + 48 to reducer,
Less stress on the key Sw

A "Sergio" Recommendation to lengthen the life of the key Sw
Sergio's design/post/picture:

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BGW

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Golferdave

Pic 1

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Golferdave

Pic 2

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dundeebarnbuggy

Looks complicated. Does your voltage reducer not have a [yellow] trigger wire? I just installed a heavy duty toggle switch for my lights instead of the cheap pull switch to eliminate the relay = less crap to fail.

Golferdave

No trigger wire.
48 in.........12 out

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Hunter450

Golferdave,

I like where you're locating the reducer up high under the front cowl for protection from the elements. I'm needing a 12 volt system on my cart to power front LED headlights and rear LED backup light. I think I'm going old school and have a "Master" switch between the pack and the reducer. I have done this on many 12 volt boat systems. I like the idea of 1 switch to kill all accessories including power to the reducer. Thanks for sharing.

dundeebarnbuggy

Strong and simple.Will/does your master switch also take the place of the "ignition" switch? That would eliminate any chance of forgetting it on.

Golferdave

I bet the reducers with a trigger wire
The trigger is an internal 48v relay ,
similar to what I installed

For sure
Would be A cleaner install,
(I could have done a cleaner install )

I have $17 for the reducer & $7 for the relay

suprteacher1

Nice job GolferDave. It looks well done.

After a bit more research, I bought a kit from tecscan that has a reducer as well as a light kit for my Club Car with the intent to wire it with a toggle switch instead of the Key Switch. The toggle switch will be lighted so I know if the switch is on or off. For the vast majority of my driving, the toggle switch for the reducer won't ever be on as the only thing I'm powering are the light kit and rarely drive around at night.

I had thought about just running off 2 of the 8 volt batteries, but for the price ($99 for the reducer and light kit) I couldn't beat it. The best part is that the owner of the business designed the product and will honor the warranty that comes with both the light kit and reducer, whereas the cheap Chinese reducers won't have much warranty when they blow up.

I can't wait until we get some nice weather here in Michigan for me to put the lights and reducer in.

Golferdave

Working on the patio out of a card box
& minimal tools ,
made it work.

If back in my shop in AK, would
Mount everything on a piece of aluminum
(Add a fuse block)
Be a much cleaner install

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