Horn inoperative

Andy8B

2007 Club Car Precedent 48 volt with deluxe light kit.
Bought used, was told horn was disconnected. All lights, turn signals function normally. Checked horn on battery and it works well. Wires on horn are connected. No voltage coming to harness connector at front light assembly. Removed turn signal/horn switch assembly from steering column opened it up and found nothing unusual except a black and a blue wire both with female barrel connectors held in place by the two screws holding the back cover. Are these two wires to be jumped to make the horn work? The Blue wire has 12 volts the black wire possibly a ground. The switch assembly has a horn button on it and no floor horn switch. Unable to find the proper wiring diagram for this light kit. Have been told that they come disconnected. Can not find place to reconnect.
Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance for you attention to this issue.

BGW

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yawood

This is what I would do:

Disconnect the two wires you speak of near the switch (to disconnect the 12V), connect a continuation meter across the two wires from the switch assembly and press the horn button. If you get a buzz from the continuation meter then it indicates that these wires come from each side of the horn button.

If that is the case, then you are trying to reproduce the diagram below so one side of the switch should come from the +ve of the horn and the other side to the +ve of the converter. The -ve of the horn goes straight to the -ve of the converter.

Check out your wiring to see if this is the case and connect the disconnected side of the switch as appropriate.

It is possible that the switch is on the negative side (i.e. it breaks the -ve rather than breaking the +ve but it is usually the way I have shown and if you've got 12V on one side of the switch already then it should be the way I have shown).

Attached Images

Horn circuit.jpg (18.2 KB, 0 views)

yawood

I should have said continuity rather than continuation but I'm sure you knew what I meant, all but the cheapest multimeters have a continuity setting.