Separate 24 volt circuits to LED Headlights

Hunter450

Let me preface this by saying that I apply the KISS approach whenever possible. I have a need to add only headlights to my cart and do not plan to add any future accessories. I have struggled with the DC-DC reducer vs the separate 12 volt battery option and really didn't like either of those for just headlights.... remember, keep it simple.

I have found LED pod lights that operate between 9-50 VDC.

My questions are:

1.) Would there be any issues wiring the lights individually with 24 volts by dividing the pack voltage (6-8V) equally through a DPST switch? Basically batteries 1-3 would power one light and batteries 4-6 would power the other light. This would be a balanced draw on the pack operating through a single switch.
2.) Can I wire the (-) ground wire on the light back to any negative post on the half pack that is supplying the 24 volt power?

BGW

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Mooncarter

Sounds balanced. If the lights can use 50 volts why not use the whole pack?

Hunter450

My pack voltage reaches in the neighborhood of 62 volts at the end of a charge so just trying to head off an innocent flip of the switch at the wrong time.

Hunter450

Okay, spoke to both the LED light vendor and separate switch vendor for my keep it simple headlight project. Each light is 10 watts and would pull only 0.42amps if I supply 24 volts (half pack voltage) to each light for a balanced draw on the entire pack. Again, I'm want to use a (4) terminal DPST rocker style switch and the switch vendor suggested not to do it but would not give me an explanation? Does anyone see any issues with connecting 2 independent 24 volt power sources to the separate poles of a switch rated at 20A @ 125VAC & 10A @ 250 VAC?

_ogre

i don't use ac rated switches on dc current, or vice versa
i learned this while doing maintenance on heavy machining centers
though i googled it and came up with mixed results
i suggest using a dc rated switch for reliability

teecro

Nope I don't see any issue doing this at all as long as you've using a toggle switch of adequate size and while you quoted 20A@125VAC it is also most likely rated 20A@28VDC too... I don't sleep at HIE but I am a 30 plus year Tugboat Engineer and have used toggle switches for many many jobs both AC & DC but I do stay away from cheapy plastic automotive switches...

kgsc

LED lights act a little different when it comes to converting amps to watts. I put in 2 50 watt and 2 27 watt bulbs in parallel which should be 154 watts. At 12 volts filament style that is roughly 12 amps. These LEDs pulled 0.7 amps. Most switches can handle that.

TX_RDXGuy

I run a pair of the D series Rigid LED driving lights along with a center LED light kit. Both are fused on the positive lead, have a dash mount switch and are wired directly to a different 24VDC battery set (three 8V batteries). Works great....

Attached Images

	Front WLights.jpg (177.3 KB, 0 views)
	Rigids Lit.JPG (104.0 KB, 0 views)
	Rigids WHLights.JPG (101.5 KB, 0 views)

whit71

.) Can I wire the (-) ground wire on the light back to any negative post on the half pack that is supplying the 24 volt power?

If your cart has an OBC you need to run both grounds to the B- on the controller.

Hunter450

TX_RDXGuy,
That is exactly what I want to do. What amp rating did you use on the fuses? Did you wire the lights ground wires back to the B- connection on the controller?