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Unread 08-22-2017, 10:05 AM   #11
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Default Re: Wiring Noodle

Latest: Owner claims he was testing by bypassing OBC and hit the wrong low amp terminal on solenoid and got a spark. As he was replacing solenoid and controller anyway, he went ahead and did that (they looked wired correctly). So, new solenoid and controller since mishap. I bypassed OBC today (w/o shorting) and no luck. Now I'm wondering if the short may have zapped the potentiometer?

So, as I show no power at the on/off switch, no power getting to f/r; does this mean solenoid is activated by the on/off switch which, itself, is activated by the potentiometer?

If so, can I take the potentiometer apart and check out the microswitch (if there is one in there).

Also, with fluke attacked to positive last out (battery) and the negative-out post on the controller I get: 1) With F/R switch in neutral = 48v. With F/R switch in Forward or Reverse = no voltage (to be expected?), however does NOT increase with pedal depressed as, I believe, it should (to make the cart go).

Thanks
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Unread 08-22-2017, 11:26 AM   #12
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Default Re: Wiring Noodle

I think you're on the right track. You can check the limit switch in the potentiometer with a multimeter. Let us know what you find.
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Unread 08-22-2017, 12:46 PM   #13
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Default Re: Wiring Noodle

OK, checked the limit switch on the F/R. I am getting continuity in neutral (not supposed to) and in Reverse (OK). But not in forward (I should be getting continuity). So, now I'm stuck. Where do I go from here? Thanks
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Unread 08-22-2017, 07:24 PM   #14
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Default Re: Wiring Noodle

There should be three limit switches on the F&R switch. Which one are you checking? I was referring to the limit switch in the speed switch, but it's good to check these as well..... Only if it's a 36 volt cart will it have only one switch on the back of the F&R, but you said you had an OBC, so it has to be a 48 volt cart.
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Unread 08-22-2017, 09:07 PM   #15
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Default Re: Wiring Noodle

Quote:
Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71 View Post
There should be three limit switches on the F&R switch. Which one are you checking? I was referring to the limit switch in the speed switch, but it's good to check these as well..... Only if it's a 36 volt cart will it have only one switch on the back of the F&R, but you said you had an OBC, so it has to be a 48 volt cart.
Yes 48v. I checked the switch furthest to the front, with the black/white wire.
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Unread 08-22-2017, 09:08 PM   #16
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Default Re: Wiring Noodle

You should have continuity between the two posts when the switch is closed (plunger depressed). This should happen in forward and reverse.
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Unread 08-22-2017, 09:40 PM   #17
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Default Re: Wiring Noodle

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Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71 View Post
You should have continuity between the two posts when the switch is closed (plunger depressed). This should happen in forward and reverse.
I am getting continuity in neutral and in Reverse. But not in forward. Does that mean the microswitch is toast?
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Unread 08-22-2017, 10:32 PM   #18
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Default Re: Wiring Noodle

That makes no sense at all. This sounds more like a mechanical issue than an electronic issue. Are you testing the microswitch that is closest to the mechanical switch? Post a picture if you can and let me see what you're testing. The switch doesn't know whether the car is in forward or reverse. It has a cam on the back of the switch that lifts the plunger up in forward and reverse, but not neutral. The only way I can make sense out of this is if you're testing the rear-most microswitch. It operates as you describe. If you've got the white/black wire on the rearmost switch, you've got a wiring issue. A picture will help with that as well. If you can't post it here, text it to me. I'm going to bed. 706-836-7210.
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Unread 08-23-2017, 08:55 AM   #19
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Default Re: Wiring Noodle

Quote:
Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71 View Post
That makes no sense at all. This sounds more like a mechanical issue than an electronic issue. Are you testing the microswitch that is closest to the mechanical switch? Post a picture if you can and let me see what you're testing. The switch doesn't know whether the car is in forward or reverse. It has a cam on the back of the switch that lifts the plunger up in forward and reverse, but not neutral. The only way I can make sense out of this is if you're testing the rear-most microswitch. It operates as you describe. If you've got the white/black wire on the rearmost switch, you've got a wiring issue. A picture will help with that as well. If you can't post it here, text it to me. I'm going to bed. 706-836-7210.
White/black wire is on the switch that is the most forward, toward the front. I realize what you're saying which is why I'm wondering of the forward microswitch is bad. Also, the first time I checked it I was getting no continuity in any of the three positions. In other words, if the switch is messed up it may sometimes give a continuity reading and vise versa when it should not.

Also, I'm unclear why I am getting no power at the on/off switch. Thanks
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Unread 08-27-2017, 09:46 AM   #20
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Default Re: Wiring Noodle

Where we left off, TahoeDawg suggested (by text) that I remove the two wires from the front switch, use a blade fuse to jump them together (in forward) and see if the cart runs. It does not. I'm confused as to where the power is being interrupted.

Thanks
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