No power between B+ & M-

Kdunk

My 2003 Club Car DS IQ cart just quite working i found some troubleshooting guides online and everthing seems to checkout fine. I ran all the pedal test and every voltage test on the 16 pin plug in to the controller all the test for the OBC everything tests fine. Solenoid pulls in but i don't get any voltage between B+ & M-, is my Curtis 1510-5201 bad or could I be missing something?

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

Golf cart guy

Solenoid click but cart doesn't run- Check continuity on the motor terminals, id say chances are good motor brushes are worn out.

Kdunk

Golf car guy
Do i just check continuity or is there a certain Ohm range I should be looking for? I have continuity between A1 & A2

Raystar57

When the solenoid engages do you have 48v between B+ and B- or pack neg?

This could be a MCOR problem which gives the controller the throttle amount signal.

On the motor, remove all wires.
On the low ohms scale:
A1-A2 should have continuity with a low ohm reading but not a solid short
F1-F2 should have continuity with a low ohm reading but not a solid short.
Case to A1,A2,F1,F2 should be no connection or very high resistance.
Very high resistance can come from excessive brush wear carbon but motor should still run.
A1 and A2 to F1 and F2 should be no connection.

Kdunk

Raystar57
With the solenoid pulled in i have 50V between B+ & B-
A1-A2 .2 Ohm
F1-F2 1.2 Ohm.

I found a nice little PDF that walks you through troubleshooting from fisp. I have 0-5V going into pin 2 on the curtis depending on which postion the pedal is in.

Raystar57

Kdunk, I hate to say it but I do think the controller is bad.
Seems you have checked all the issues and still no output on the M-.
Motor readings seem ok.
I don't think the speed sensor would be the issue as when it fails the controller goes into limp mode and cart can get you home.
There are wizards here and they may have some other suggestions.
I have attached the simplified hookup for this controller but it seems you have covered it.
If you decide to change the controller I would look at Alltrax XCT products.
http://www.alltraxinc.com/Products_XCT.html
They are highly respected here and have great control features through software interface.
They are available through various site sponsors.
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/site-sponsors.php
Scottyb at http://www.cartsunlimited.net can fix you up.
There is good info there regarding all aspects for cart upgrades.
May want to keep checking connections and see what other may have to offer.

Also, to BGW!

Attached Files

electrical_diagram_1510_simple.pdf (276.1 KB, 0 views)

Kdunk

Raystar57,
Thanks for your help. I tried to test my motor also with my boat battery by using a wiring hookup I seen on here and couldn't get my to turn. I'm going to drop the motor off at a local motor shop tomorrow to have it checked out and maybe freshened up. I was looking at the Alltrex if I need to replace mine just not sure if I should get the 300 amp or spend the extra $70 for the 400 amp. Don't really need anymore speed for putting around the campground but a little more torque could help on the hills.

Raystar57

Good to have that motor checked.
There could be something wrong with it that we can't tell but the readings seem ok.
On my 2003 stock GE motor I had plenty of brush left and minor commutator wear.

If you upgrade the controller you have some options.
The 300 amp is not much more than you have now and would yield about the same as you have.
The 400 amp is a great choice and will offer added low end torque and some speed.
You would really need to go to a 200A solenoid and at least a 4awg cable set to do it justice.
From knowledge here the stock motor can handle the 400A controller.

Keep us posted on the motor status as maybe you really have a problem with it.
But since you can't get any M- voltage I believe you will be looking at a controller.

mgray70

If you have a rear seat, larger tires, or any moderate hills, I'd spend the $70 for the 400 amp. The 300 amp is basically a stock replacement for a non lifted 2 seater.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk