Charger does not work

Blue CCar

Hello All,

This is my first post although I have been lurking for a few months now. I recently picked up my first project cart, a stock 2004 precedent with 2015 Trojan 12v's. The cart is running fine, however the charger (power drive 3) will no longer kick on. I believe the OBC is the culprit but want to make sure I haven't miss diagnosed or overlooked anything else.

I started by performing the OBC reset per scottyb's instruction followed by the charger trouble shooting sticky with the following results:
1. Pack voltage measured at 51.0v.
2. Red wire seems o.k. from receptacle to main battery (+). Grey wire is in tact no issues after light pull. I measured the voltage from the grey wire socket in the charge receptacle to the main battery (+) which gave me 45.6v. Same voltage was also measured by placing lead on grey wire connection to the OBC (charge receptacle is o.k.?). I assume here lies my problem, 45.6v may not be enough voltage to trigger the charger. Hence my OBC needs to be replaced?
3. N/A for my cart.
4. Pulled the blue and white wire from either side of the charger relay. Plugged charger into cart and had 0v reading.

I plan on picking up a 12guage "jumper" wire after work to bypass the OBC to further confirm my charger is o.k.

If the above is the case, are there any advantages to permanently bypassing the OBC or should I just replace the OBC? As I understand it if permanently bypassing the OBC I will need to purchase a new charger as my current power drive 3 will not kick off and will overcharge the batteries without the OBC.

Thanks!

BGW

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mgray70

I prefer the permanent bypass and replace the charger with a DPI Accusense 17 amp model that is made for the club car OBC bypass. The 15 amp model works with the OBC.

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Sergio

If that reading was taking between the white and blue wires then you have a broken wire in the the DC cord since those wires are directly connected to the same voltage reading you did on #2 test (positive and sense wire).

Also "seems o.k." is not conclusive, the correct procedure is to measure the voltage from charger receptacle positive socket to pack negative battery post.

If You get "pack voltage", that will conclusively tell you the red wire is OK.

Measure from "sense socket" to positive socket.

Measure from positive socket to negative socket.

Blue CCar

Thanks Sergio. I will check again based on the feedback above. I was able to dig up the power drive wiring diagram and agree, it could be a broken wire in the DC plug. I will reply with findings regardless.

Blue CCar

Ok I had some time this weekend to further investigate with the following results.

Pack Voltage: 50.9v
Charge Socket (+) to Pack (-): 50.9v.
Charge Socket (+) to Controller (B-): 50.9v.

OBC SCR Circuit Test:
Charge Socket (+) to Charge Socket (-): 39.8v.
AC & DC cords connected, DC cord red wire (+) to DC cord black wire (-): steadily climbed before maxing out at 57v.

OBC Gray Wire Test:
Pack (+) to Gray 16gauge wire @OBC: 46.6v.

With all said above I was able to get the charger to kick on, but only if the DC cord was pulled vertical (picture attached). This would explain why I was measuring 0v between the blue and white wire in the DC cord previously. Once the cord is pulled vertical contact is made and the charger kicks on. I think if I replace the DC cord the problem should be fixed.

Attached Images

DC cord.jpg (203.2 KB, 0 views)

Golf cart guy

If the cart runs, then there is enough power to turn the charger on.

Since you have to move the cord like that to get it to charge, there is a better chance the issue is in charge receptacle, make sure nothing is burnt or melted, your cord looks like it is in good shape

Blue CCar

I was able to get my hands on a neighbors charger. Plugged it in and it fired right up without having to adjust the approach of the DC cord. This confirms its the plug on the DC Cord for me. Thanks for all the input guys.