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Unread 02-05-2018, 10:26 PM   #1
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Default 2003 club car ds iq 48v

Our golf cart is giving us some issues with the pedal. I need to narrow down the issue.

With key is put in and turned on, rocker switch in reverse, buzzer sounds. When pressing pedal to go it clicks once under the passenger side and doesnít move. If we fiddle with the brake/gas pedal and rocker switch we can usually get it going when this happens we hear two clicks, one under passenger seat and the other we believe is the solenoid.

We have already replaced the solenoid and MCOR.. but the issue persists..

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks.
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Unread 02-06-2018, 09:11 AM   #2
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Default Re: 2003 club car ds iq 48v

First, welcome to the site!

Your description clears the OBC and the FNR reverse contact as causes, but little else.

You can run diagnostics when the problem is occurring to find the actual cause.

Test Setup:
Raise one of the rear wheels off the ground.
Put Tow/Run switch on Run
Turn Key switch ON
Put FNR on Forward.
Set meter to 200vDC.

Put meter negative probe on Controller B-.

Make sure You have +48v (pack voltage) on the following Controller pins:
Pin 1 - Tan wire - Key Switch Power.
Pin 8 - Brown wire - Forward Direction selected.
Pin 9 - Gray wire - Aux Power.
When you press the pedal and hear the MCOR micro-switch close, you should get +48v:
Pin 6 - Green wire - Pedal.

Set the meter to 20vDC

Check the voltage on the following pin with Pedal UP and right at the time the MCOR micro-switch closes:
Pin 2 - Yellow wire - throttle signal:

If everything works, the Controller should be activating the Solenoid, to verify:
Set meter to 200vDC.
Put meter positive probe on pack positive battery post (where charger receptacle red wire is connected).
Put meter negative probe on:
Pin 12 - Blue/White - Solenoid activation
You should get +48v (pack voltage) when the MCOR micro-switch clicks.


Once You post your results, we should be able to figure out what is causing the problem.


Here is a wiring diagram for your cart (click to see larger version):

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Unread 02-08-2018, 04:54 PM   #3
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Default Re: 2003 club car ds iq 48v

Ok I think you meant pin 10 - tan instead of pin 1

If thatís right this is what I found:
Pin 10: 48.7v
Pin 8: 50.4v
Pin 9: 49.9v

Pedal
Pin 6: 46.1v

Throttle
Pin 2: 0.00v

So it looks like itís not always getting the throttle signal, is that correct?

thanks!
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Unread 02-08-2018, 06:22 PM   #4
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Default Re: 2003 club car ds iq 48v

Yes, I meant pin #10 (at least I got the right color ).

I did have pin #1 on my mind depending on the results...

The 16-pin connector should have been plugged to the Controller during the previous tests.

If the signal on pin #2 yellow wire from MCOR wiper is not increasing when you press the pedal, we have a problem.

Check the voltage on pin #1 white wire with the key switch ON and the FNR in Forward, if You don't have close to 5v, the controller is bad.

If You do get 5v at the Controller, check the voltage on the MCOR 3-pin connector white wire.

If the voltage is 0v, you have a break in the white wire between the Controller pin #1 and the MCOR 3-pin connector.

if the voltage is close to 5v, Disconnect the 16-pin Connector from the Controller and check continuity:
Between the 3-pin Yellow wire and the Controller [B[pin #2[/B]
Between the 3-pin Purple wire and Controller pin #3.
If both wires have continuity, the MCOR is bad.


Edit:
Make sure the pink wire is on the Battery side of the Solenoid big post.
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Unread 02-08-2018, 06:50 PM   #5
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Default Re: 2003 club car ds iq 48v

I tested the pins with the connector removed from the controller, how can I test with it still connected?
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Unread 02-09-2018, 06:13 AM   #6
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Default Re: 2003 club car ds iq 48v

Quote:
Originally Posted by Basebal446 View Post
I tested the pins with the connector removed from the controller, how can I test with it still connected?
You would need a "back probe" which is a long and skinny probe (or something similar) for your meter.

You can still test the MCOR wires have continuity to the Controller and test the Controller is sending power to the MCOR at the MCOR 3-pin connector.

Keep one of the rear wheels OFF the ground.

Tow/Run switch to TOW.

Meter set to 20kΩ resistance.

MCOR 3-pin plugged and the Controller 16-pin Unplugged.

Measure resistance at the 16-pin connector:
From Pin #1 - White to Pin #3 - Purple: Fixed resistance from Pedal Up/Down
From Pin #2 - Yellow to Pin #1 - White: Resistance ranges High to Low from Pedal Up/Down.
From Pin #2 - Yellow to Pin #3 - Purple: Resistance ranges Low to High from Pedal Up/Down.

Please Post the actual resistance values you got.

Also, on the 3rd test (Pin #2 to #3) note the resistance value when you hear the micro-switch close inside the MCOR.


The other test is to make sure the Controller is sending +5v power from Pin #1 to the MCOR.

Plug the Controller back.

Unplug the MCOR 3-pin connector from the MCOR.

Put the Tow/Run on Run.
Key switch ON.
FNR in Forward.

Meter set to 20vDC.

Measure the voltage at the MCOR 3-pin connector between the White wire and the Purple wire, it should be near 5v.
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Unread 02-12-2018, 07:59 PM   #7
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Default Re: 2003 club car ds iq 48v

Ok here are the results from the last tests requested..

Pin 1 to 3 = 5v constant
Pin 2 to 1 = pedal high at 6.28 pedal low at 1.13
Pin 2 to 3 = pedal high at 1.26 pedal low at 6.16

Pin 2 to 3 mcor click: would lower while pressing pedal.(as low as 1.09). drop a lot right before click then after shoot back up to 1.56 after click then proceed up slowly to 6.16

I was only able to get a max of 1.19 at the mcor white and purple wires. To be honest I wasn’t sure how good of contact I was making putting my probe in that little hole.

Hopefully all this makes sense to you..

thanks so much for the help!!
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Unread 02-13-2018, 06:06 AM   #8
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Default Re: 2003 club car ds iq 48v

Getting good readings are important otherwise we can not eliminate any components.

You had some different voltage numbers on the first test (Pins: 6,8,9,10), they should have been pretty close to each other since they are connected to the same tow/run power.

The only thing I can suggest based of your observation of the throttle signal fluctuation at the time the micro-switch closes is to force the MCOR micro-switch ON.

Make a jumper out of a large paper clip or a stiff wire, disconnect the 2-pin connector from the MCOR and place the jumper on the 2-pins on the harness connector.

Put electric tape around the connection to insulate it (it has 48v).

That way the timing between MCOR micro-switch closing and the Throttle signal will not be a factor.

See if the problem persists.
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