Club car 48v will not move

Gregbuch

Hello all. New to the forum and in need of help. I have a 98 club car 48v that is driven only on weekends. The last 2 weeks i have turned the key put in forward and it will not go. I turn off and on and shift forward and reverse and it will run the rest of the night. This past weekend it will not move at all. If i give it throttle it will move an inch and then nothing. If you give it throttle immediatly after it will do nothing. After 30s. It will move an inch again. Smelled a burning smel from pot. I replaced. Nothing. Replaced solenoid. Nothing. Micros on f and r replaced. I get 50v to Neg small side of solenoid. So i dont think i need to bypass obc. Im at a loss what to do next. Im already in at 350 for solenoid and pot and really dont want to spend money on controller for no reason. Any help appreciated. Also the resistor on solenoid gets hot and that does not matter if the solenoid clicks or not.

BGW

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Mooncarter

Gazoo

Welcome aboard the crazy train!

Gregbuch

Thanks

Mooncarter

Are you saying the resistor is hot all the time? Does the solenoid click each time you press the go pedal?

twilliams81

I’m far an expert compared to the other guys on here but at first guess (and i hate to say it) but signs are pointing to possibly a controller issue if you’re solenoid resistor is getting hot with the cart standing still...means your controller is pulling power when it shouldn’t be and could mean a malfunction or total failure. Did I read correct that you replaced your pontentiometer? Have you noticed any worn or overheated areas on your F&R switch? Potentiometer? Cables? Did you have any arcing during replacing parts?

mrgolf

Is this a regen 2 cart?

Gregbuch

The resistor is only hot when you press and hold pedal. 5 sec or so. It only clicks the first time you press predal then solenoid wont click again for 30 secs or so. It is a series cart. I took apart f and r switch and everything looked fine and looked like it was making good contact.(suprisingly clean).

Gregbuch

Yes i replaced potentiometer. When i took it off to inspect it smelled burnt. The plastic body that holds it to cart had broken when removing so it would not stay in place.

Sergio

What You are describing is consistent with the Controller activating but the Solenoid not closing.

The same +48v that goes to Controller pin #1 goes to one side of the Solenoid coil.

Since the Controller is getting activated, power is getting to Controller pin #1.

You need to check the wiring from the FNR micro-switch where it splits to both the Controller pin #1 and the Solenoid small post.

Since You already verified the Solenoid has the negative side from the OBC, If the Solenoid is getting +48v but it is not closing, it needs to be replaced.

Otherwise fix the wiring so the Solenoid gets +48v on the small post.