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Unread 05-31-2018, 01:32 PM   #11
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car Precedent - Recs and Advice for a Newb

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Originally Posted by bobwalter View Post
As long as they are golf car batteries, I see no problem. If your brother got 5 years out of them, they must be pretty good. I had not heard of Continental golf car batts. They should serve you just fine. Check the stickies above and read the one about batteries. Lots of good info.
Thanks.
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Unread 05-31-2018, 04:25 PM   #12
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car Precedent - Recs and Advice for a Newb

Just a couple of comments from reading some of the questions: If you have a good pack, new batteries will not yield you any more speed or torque as that is relative to the controller amperage and the capabilities of the motor. 48vdc is 48vdc and 250 amps is 250 amps. Now range is different and the amp hours is where that is derived from. What you can do is increase the efficiency of the energy delivery such as others here mentioned with upgraded cables and connections. And of course there are tricks like speed magnets or speed codes, but generally what you give to one end, you take from the other end. That is where the SepEx designs are really nice because you can get a lot of bang for your buck with just a controller upgrade (as others also mentioned) such as the XCT-300. scottyb did a thread on it and with a stock sepex unit and only an Alltrax XCT-300 and stock tires was in the ~22/23ph range (if I remember correctly). Put larger tires and you are high 20's and more torque than the stock set up. Plus all kinds of User controlled parameters that allow you to tweak the controller for your specific needs.

And in regards to batteries, here is some general information that may help others understand what we mean when we are talking "golf cart" batteries as compared to "starting" or "Marine" batteries.

Starting (sometimes called SLI, for starting, lighting, ignition) batteries are commonly used to start and run engines. Engine starters need a very large starting current for a very short time. Starting batteries have a large number of thin plates for maximum surface area. The plates are composed of a Lead "sponge", similar in appearance to a very fine foam sponge. This gives a very large surface area, but if deep cycled, this sponge will quickly be consumed/degrade and fall to the bottom of the cells. Automotive batteries will generally fail after 30-150 deep cycles, while they may last for thousands of cycles in normal starting use (2%-5% discharge rate).

Deep Cycle is designed to be discharged down as much as 80% (like in trolling motors, but try not to go below 50% in golf cart batteries) time after time, and have much thicker plates. The major difference between a true deep cycle and others is that the plates are "solid" lead, and not sponge type, as in automotive designs. This gives less surface area, thus less "instant" power like starting batteries need. The golf car battery is quite popular for small systems and RV's. The problem is that "golf cart" generally refers to a size of battery (like GC-2, T-105, US-185, etc.), not the type or construction, so the quality and construction of a golf car battery can vary considerably - ranging from the cheap off-brand (generics) with thin plates up to the true deep cycle brands like Crown, US, Trojan, etc. In general, you get what you pay for in Golf Cart batteries so be careful with that slick salesmen that is working off commission.

Marine batteries are actually a hybrid, and fall between the starting and deep-cycle batteries, though a few (Rolls-Surrette and Concorde) are true deep cycle. In the hybrid types, the plates may be composed of lead sponge, but it is coarser and heavier than that used in starting batteries (and I hear this design is used in some golf cart batteries, too). It is often hard to tell what you are getting in a marine battery, but most are a hybrid. Hybrid types should not be discharged more than 50%. Starting batteries are usually rated in CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) or MCA (Marine Cranking Amps), which is the same as CA (Cranking Amps). Any battery with the capacity shown in CA or MCA may not be a true deep-cycle battery. It is sometimes hard to tell, as the term deep cycle is sometimes overused. CA and MCA ratings are at 32 degrees F, while CCA is at 0 degree F. Unfortunately, the only positive way to tell with some generic batteries is to buy one and cut it open - not much of an option.
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Unread 05-31-2018, 04:33 PM   #13
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car Precedent - Recs and Advice for a Newb

Great post/info Nole!
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Unread 05-31-2018, 05:16 PM   #14
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car Precedent - Recs and Advice for a Newb

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Unread 06-01-2018, 08:50 PM   #15
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car Precedent - Recs and Advice for a Newb

Thanks so much for the details Nole!

Now, can I ask likely the dumbest question possible on this forum?

I just measured the voltage with my volt meter on all of the batteries individually. I see mentions of also measuring the "pack" voltage. Where do I measure that at?
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Unread 06-01-2018, 08:54 PM   #16
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car Precedent - Recs and Advice for a Newb

That would be your main pack Pos (red cable that runs to the solenoid) and the main pack Neg (Black cable that runs back to the OBC). So it is the (+) terminal (red cable) of the first battery and (-) terminal (black cable) of the last battery. Test at these 2 points and you will get the "Pack" voltage.
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Unread 06-01-2018, 09:26 PM   #17
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car Precedent - Recs and Advice for a Newb

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Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever View Post
That would be your main pack Pos (red cable that runs to the solenoid) and the main pack Neg (Black cable that runs back to the OBC). So it is the (+) terminal (red cable) of the first battery and (-) terminal (black cable) of the last battery. Test at these 2 points and you will get the "Pack" voltage.


Thanks again, Nole! Here are my stats:

Battery 1: 12.5V (battery with red cable)
Battery 2: 12.6V
Battery 3: 12.3V
Battery 4: 12.5V (main pack w/ black cable to OBC and blue cable on +)
Pack: 50.4

I also just replaced the standard battery indicator with the digital meter from ScottyB. It's reading at 49.8, which, obviously is less than I'm getting straight from the batteries at 50.4. Is this to be expected? If not, where can I identify the .6 loss? I need to work on wiring this digital meter to the key switch so it's not always on, also.
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Unread 06-01-2018, 09:29 PM   #18
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car Precedent - Recs and Advice for a Newb

Obviously, the 50.4 is lower than what is should be after looking at the chart as it's around 90% and I just took it off of the charger. The batteries are from 2013 so I'm good with that, but honestly I haven't noticed many issues with them.
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Unread 06-01-2018, 09:33 PM   #19
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car Precedent - Recs and Advice for a Newb

While on the charger, I see 50.7 at the digital meter and 53.8 at the pack.
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Unread 06-01-2018, 09:37 PM   #20
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car Precedent - Recs and Advice for a Newb

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Originally Posted by sciggs View Post
While on the charger, I see 50.7 at the digital meter and 53.8 at the pack.
I take that back. The digital meter is still around 0.6 off from my multi meter.
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