1990 CC DS 36V Resistor Cart

peteywhit

Hello there!

This is my first post on the forums, although I have read through a lot of the recent posts and comments.



Skip this if you don’t care about the back story...

Two weeks ago today, I was given a 90 model DS that my buddy said he couldn’t put back together. He had bought it from a guy that said everything was good, but after he got it, he and his family drove it a couple of times, and he said it wouldn’t go 300 yards before it died. He bought 2 new batteries for some reason instead of 6, and I don’t really know if he put them in wrong or what, but one thing led to another and he started tearing it down. He took it to a shop for them to replace the "connections" on the motor, and he never got it put back together.

So, I loaded it up, brought it home and immediately disconnected the batteries just in case something was wired wrong. I took one bank of two to test the motor and got motion to the tires.

I started checking all the wiring according to the diagrams and found a bad key switch wire. I tested the solenoid and found it was bad. I also found that the resistors were installed backwards (skinniest 6 turn coil was on the passenger side and the thickest 3 turn coil was on the driver side). I disassembled it and checked the conditions of all these wires and reinstalled correctly.

Once I was okay with the wiring, I reinstalled the batteries and checked the water levels. The two newer batteries were okay, but the other 4 had plates exposed, so I added some water. I then connected the charger, and nothing happened. Looked up issues on the charger and then realized it was automatic and needed a certain voltage in order to turn on. So, then I disconnected between every two batteries and started charging each pair with a jump box and and a smaller 12v charger that supposedly is good at cleaning the plates?

I then put the cables back where they go and plugged the 36v charger in and it started charging. I replaced the bad wire and solenoid and connected everything without the body on. While on jack stands, I checked forward and reverse and both worked. This weekend I started disconnecting everything again so I could get the body on and see what it would do. I put the body on with no hardware, and mounted the charging port and FNR switch and reconnected all wires.

I set the cart down, put it in reverse, and it slowly crept backwards. Put it in forward and rode down my flat concrete driveway where it was definitely faster, but still crawling (my 3 year old daughter was out running me barefoot).

Plugged it back on the charger and it charged for about 3 hours before it stopped and the battery gauge shows charged.

This is where I am now.





TLDR

My plans are to convert this to a 48v solid state cart, but I need to do it without breaking the bank. If it’s possible to purchase things over time and keep the cart operational throughout the process, that would be the best thing. Long term, I would like to have a rocker switch FNR, different style charging port, upgrade to newer style seat, roof and supports IF they fit, new front cap, tires and wheels and a lift kit with new suspension. Plus some other add on’s.

1. If I buy (6) 8v batteries, what else will I need to change on this cart? Just the solenoid, or the FNR switch also? Will the resistors and motor hold up to the higher current provided by the 48v? Since batteries are a high purchase, I would like to keep it stock for a short time before making the next big purchase.

2. There’s 2 welds broken on the floor board brackets to the frame, behind the steering rack and pinion. Will this make a big difference in stability of the frame?


3. Does anyone have some clean looking electrical installs? Right now, mine is just “there” because I plan on stripping it down completely to really clean it up later.


4. The gas pedal has a LOT of play because I think the accelerator bearings are not present. There is a lot of movement in the brackets. Also, the wiper in the V-glide stops on the 6th contact and doesn’t reach the 7th and 8th. Will this be fixed with new bearing brackets, or will there need to be some adjustments to the pedal and rod?


5. What the h*** do you use to loosen and tighten the nuts on the back of the charging port? None of my sockets are getting between the nut and guard?


6. When I do get a controller, do some still use the v-glide, or do they all use a new potentiometer style accelerator pedal? What’s best?


All answers and other input is greatly appreciated,
Blake

BGW

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peteywhit

Here’s a video of it running.

https://cl.ly/7aa02e16317b

fsu1tm

I set the cart down, put it in reverse, and it slowly crept backwards. Put it in forward and rode down my flat concrete driveway where it was definitely faster, but still crawling (my 3 year old daughter was out running me barefoot). Sounds like batteries.

Plugged it back on the charger and it charged for about 3 hours before it stopped and the battery gauge shows charged. Need to check the batteries after 12 hours off the charger. Read the sticky about batteries.

My plans are to convert this to a 48v solid state cart, but I need to do it without breaking the bank.

Order for upgrades = 1) New cables. 2) new controller and accelerator pedal, HD F/R contactor, and solenoid. 3) new batteries and charger.

1. If I buy (6) 8v batteries, what else will I need to change on this cart? Keep it 36V until you make the other changes.

2. There’s 2 welds broken on the floor board brackets to the frame, behind the steering rack and pinion. Will this make a big difference in stability of the frame? Yes. Get fixed.

3. Does anyone have some clean looking electrical installs? Check out my thread on converting to Lithium. I have a 1990 also.

4. The gas pedal has a LOT of play because I think the accelerator bearings are not present. There is a lot of movement in the brackets. Also, the wiper in the V-glide stops on the 6th contact and doesn’t reach the 7th and 8th. Will this be fixed with new bearing brackets, or will there need to be some adjustments to the pedal and rod? Not sure about bearings but there should be very little play in the pedal/rod. Vglide wiper should go full range.

5. What the h*** do you use to loosen and tighten the nuts on the back of the charging port? None of my sockets are getting between the nut and guard? Nut driver was the only way I could get mine off.

6. When I do get a controller, do some still use the v-glide, or do they all use a new potentiometer style accelerator pedal? What’s best? I really like the electronic pedal with an Alltrax controller.

As I stated, I have the same cart. Here's the life of my cart since I acquired:
1) Got it and installed new 36V batteries.
2) Charger burned out so took opportunity to install new cables, SR48500 Alltrax controller, HD F/R contactor (rocker switch F/R), 400A solenoid, electronic pedal, new 36V charger (since batteries still good).
3) batteries went out, upgraded to Lithium with new charger. Sold old charger to help with cost.

Now my step 3 could be where you install new 48V batteries (instead of Lithium) but you would need a new charger also.

BTW. Welcome to the addiction.

peteywhit

Thanks FSU!

I decided to go ahead and strip the entire cart down to its frame because I have since found about 15 cracked welds.

I’m cleaning it real good and going to fix the welds and then undercoat the frame before putting any components back on. Only thing I have left to remove are the two bolts holding the rear leaf springs to the frame behind the battery tray.

I ordered some stock replacement components that were completely worn out, and will keep it stock for a little while before I decide to get a lift, tires and 48v with an alltrax controller.

And I did get the nuts off the back of the charging port with a nut driver, so thanks for that idea!




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peteywhit

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