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Unread 10-31-2018, 06:13 PM   #1
Not Yet Wild
 
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Default Blowing 15 A fuse

2014 IQ President with Curtis 5206 controller, 3 1/2" lift 12" tires. Was in the process of upgrading to. #2 cables and PQ Bandit motor. During the process I crossed the positive and negative frying the solenoid diode and controller. Dumb trick trying to finish before the rain. Bottom line is I did not have the new motor installed when I shorted it. The old core was still in. My problem is I replace the 15A fuse, turn on the tow switch, the backup buzzer sounds, I turn the key on and the fuse blows again. Any thoughts?
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Unread 10-31-2018, 09:14 PM   #2
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Default Re: Blowing 15 A fuse

Does the backup buzzer sound even if the FnR switch is not in reverse?
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Unread 11-01-2018, 10:30 AM   #3
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Default Re: Blowing 15 A fuse

Yes
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Unread 11-01-2018, 10:40 AM   #4
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Default Re: Blowing 15 A fuse

Quote:
Originally Posted by Putterman83 View Post
2014 IQ President with Curtis 5206 controller, 3 1/2" lift 12" tires. Was in the process of upgrading to. #2 cables and PQ Bandit motor. During the process I crossed the positive and negative frying the solenoid diode and controller. Dumb trick trying to finish before the rain. Bottom line is I did not have the new motor installed when I shorted it. The old core was still in. My problem is I replace the 15A fuse, turn on the tow switch, the backup buzzer sounds, I turn the key on and the fuse blows again. Any thoughts?
So did You replace the Controller with another white ERIC controller or something else?
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Unread 11-01-2018, 02:02 PM   #5
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Default Re: Blowing 15 A fuse

same ERIC model 1515-5206
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Unread 11-01-2018, 02:58 PM   #6
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Default Re: Blowing 15 A fuse

Did You cross the solenoid activation positive and negative or the entire pack positive and negative cables?

if it was the batteries, there are a few other diodes in the dash harness that can be shorted now...
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Unread 11-01-2018, 03:36 PM   #7
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Default Re: Blowing 15 A fuse

Entire pack
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Unread 11-01-2018, 04:18 PM   #8
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Default Re: Blowing 15 A fuse

That is bad....

Start eliminating components to see if the reverse buzzer stops.

Disconnect both wires for the accessories:
Blue wire on pack positive.
Black wire with yellow bullet connector.
If You reused the motor speed sensor for any reason, disconnect it as well.

Edit: actually you have to disconnect the little gray wire pigtail from the 12 pin connector on passenger
Side of the dash.
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Unread 11-01-2018, 08:02 PM   #9
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Default Re: Blowing 15 A fuse

Thanks for your support. Let me recap the events. First was to upgrade the cables to #2. That is when the short occurred. Noticed that the diode was fried. The original Curtis controller and the original motor was installed at that time. Next installed a new solenoid and diode. Nothing. Next installed a new controller, Curtis stock 250A 1515-5026 controller matching the original. Hit the tow switch, back up buzzer sounded, put in reverse, turned key switch fuse blew. Down time allowed me to install the PQ bandit. Same thing happened. Per local mechanic, removed the diode. Same thing. That is where I am at.
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Unread 11-01-2018, 08:21 PM   #10
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Default Re: Blowing 15 A fuse

First double check both the polarity and the total voltage between the pack positive and pack negative battery posts to make sure everything is wired OK with the batteries.

If Your cart is wired for accessories, there is a 12-pin connector behind the dash on the passenger side of the cart.

That 12-pin connector has a short gray wire with a bullet connector that injects +48v from the key switch to the harness.

That dash harness has an embedded diode for the optional brake relay and that diode may be shorted now which means that when you turn the Key ON, it is a direct short to negative.

If You disconnect that 12-pin connector and the short goes away, you need to peel back the dash harness near the 4 unused female quick connectors (two 1/4" and two 3/16") and remove the diode.

That is probably the best starting point.
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