Stereo amplifier max wattage/wiring recommendations?

smokin3000gt

Hello everyone, I have a stereo/speakers on the golf cart but it's all highs/mids. I'm not trying to rattle windows or win any bass competitions but I would like to add a subwoofer to improve the sound quality.

It's a 48v system, with a 30amp 12v converter.

-What is the highest wattage I should or can go?
-Can I wire it to the/a converter or would it draw too many amps? I would rather not add an separate 12v battery if I can help it

Head unit: Rockford PMX-2
Speakers: Polk DB+ 6.5' component speakers with cross overs

Thanks for any advice

edited to add stereo info

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

Fairtax4me

You wont power any sub/amp that I know of with a 30a reducer. Some guys here run amps/subs but I’m pretty sure they use a dedicated 12v battery for them.

If you just need better sound, better speakers and a better head unit can go a long way. Consider a separate 30a reducer for the stereo system if you have other lights/accessories.

EzgoTXT2002

Pair of boxed 6x9s will go a long way on giving some bass.

Won't be many amps you can look at that will fall in the
30 amp converter range and still leave some for the rest
of your 12 volt accessories.

The separate 30 amp converter will have a short life IMO
having constant demand from an audio amp nearing it's
full 30 amps.

EzgoTXT2002

Most of the small amps I see that output 30 RMS
watts to 2 channels @ 4 ohms require a 40 amp fuse
even on the small Kicker DX series amps that go behind
Harley Davidson fairings.

Anything like the old "RoadMaster" amps that claimed
40 watts X 4 were bogus claims when they only used a 20
amp fuse.

Your average head unit "says" 50x4 but realistically it is
18 watts RMS per channel at most.

After having an Alpine system in my daily driver, I wouldn't
want anything else. Clean sound and pounding power in the
PDX series.

I still have a MRP-M1000 amp new in the box with 2 SWX-1243D
"NIB" I bought in a close out sale. I broke the factory seal to make
sure they didn't ship bricks.

smokin3000gt

For what it's worth, the head unit is a Rockford PMX-2 head unit and a pair of Polk DB+ 6.5 with crossovers..

What size converter would you recommend? I'm using a 30a now but I'm not opposed to getting larger if needed

Roxyflash

Do you have the 6.5 in a separate seaker box?

E36Racer

I’m running a total of 1,000 watts RMS with 2 class D amps on a 30 amp reducer. I think the 8” powered bazooka tube will be plenty sufficient for what you are looking for. It’s $265 on amazon. I had one on my cart as a temp solution as I was figuring out what I wanted to do long term. It’s impressive, and for the price with built in amp, it’s a great value and simple install. You will have no problem with your 12v reducer either. Cranked up it only pulls about 10amps

EzgoTXT2002

I see that Kenwood KAC-M1824BT
Gives 90 watt RMS bridged x 2 channels with only a 15 amp fuse on
Crutchfield.
What an awesome find E36Racer.

My friends told me putting Bilstein shocks on a golf cart was rediclulous.



Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

EzgoTXT2002

smokin300gt

The Kenwood KAC-M1824BT

Would be a prefect amp in non bridged mode. The output would be double of the Rockford pmx-2 to 40 watts rms x 4 and still not out run your 30 amp converter.

Or you could find 2 rockford power series 6x9 and run the kenwood bridged to 2 channels other 2 channels 20 watt from the pmx-2.


Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

EzgoTXT2002

I still can't believe Kenwood has found the tech to get 90 watts RMS X 2 bridged out of a 15 amp power draw.
(According to Crutchfield)

I know they were ahead of the curve in home audio when I bought my
KR-V5580 Pro Logic system in 1993.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk