2007 Club Car Precedent does not move...

buggieman.eric

2007 Club Car Precedent.

Key switch turns on cart.
Chargers works.
Solenoid clicks.
Reverse buzzer sounds in reverse.
Regen functions if you manually push/pull cart.
Batteries are charged.

Cart will not move in forward nor reverse.
What could it be??

Thanks
Eric

BGW

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NoleFan4Ever

With key switch On, Run/Tow switch in the Run position, Fwd/Rev rocker switch in the Fwd position (and also have the back jacked up off the ground).
Get your DVM and place the black (–) probe at the motor A2 (white wire) and connect the red (+) probe at the motor A1 (green wire) and slowly depress the Go Pedal. When the MCOR closes (clicks), the voltage reading should increase from ~5vdc gradually going up to to approximately ~45-48vdc (could be higher) with the accelerator pedal fully pressed. That will tell you if the controller is trying to operate the motor.

buggieman.eric

With the voltage meter set to read dc current, red wire from meter to white wire on motor, black wire from meter to green wire on motor..

Press the accelerator petal slowly to 100% throttle the

Reading DC voltage: The reading doesnt even show a full volt. Jumps around from .010 to .025 a few negative readings, and holds around 0.001.

Reading on AC voltage:
Without pressing the throttle at all the meter shows 1volt at idle. Press the accelerator slowly to 100%, it will jump up to 50+ volts, and go all the way up into the 70+ volt range, jump around quickly from 50volts to 70volts. Then at full throttle holds around 60ish-volts

Shouldn't this thing be DC voltage?

buggieman.eric

Sorry. The multi meter was set to milivolts range.

buggieman.eric

Alright so with the multimeter set to DC Volts, press the accelerator to 100% slowly and get 0 volts. Pretty much the same on AC volts.

Sergio

DC volts is the correct setting for the Multimeter.

Measure the voltage from pack negative to the Green wire at the Motor to make sure the Solenoid is closing and passing current.

The voltage on the green wire should be a little less than pack voltage before the Solenoid clicks and it should increase to pack voltage when the Solenoid clicks.

If the voltage is fine on the Green wire, measure the output of the Controller Between M- (positive probe) and B- (negative probe).

it should go from near pack voltage to near 0v from Pedal UP to pedal Down.

buggieman.eric

Let me clarify because im not uo to par with the lingo...

You are saying to probe the main negative from the batteries and also probe the green wire on the motor simultaneously to measure voltage. Without pressing any thing the voltage should read a little less than than the voltage on the batteries. Then press throttle, solenoid clicks, voltage at green wire should increase?

What is the M- and B- on the controller?

And you are insisting that with the petal up, ut would read peak voltage, then petal down it should read 0 volts?

buggieman.eric

I measured voltage from main negative terminal to green wire on motor = 49volts. Press throttle jumped to 50volts. Battery pack reads 50volts from main negative and main positive.

buggieman.eric

Figured out B and M.

So probing B- and M-:

Idle voltage = 49/50v
Full theottle voltage 49/50v

It did not go to 0 volts.

Sergio

You got the correct terminals on the Controller, unfortunately it appears the Controller Armature driver is bad.

You can test the throttle signal just to be sure.

Measure the voltage on Controller pin #2 - Yellow wire on the Controller 16-pin connector.

With Key ON and FNR in Forward, the voltage on Pin #2 should go from near zero (approx 0.3v) when You hear MCOR "click" to near 5v (4.65v) with Pedal Down.

Make sure you still keep a wheel OFF the ground during tests.