Another Resistor Heating Up between Solenoid Terminals...

Htownblue

Greetings friends. I am working on a 2004 club car. Stock set up and controller. I did not notice any controller/solenoid issues prior to installing the reducer and light kit. Cart seemingly ran normal for stock cart with lift.
Installed light kit and reducer, wired with fuses etc etc. Previous owner had kit wired to one of the 4 batts individually. Undid that and did correct way. During this process I obviously disconnected some of the batteries etc. Hooked up kit to 04 harness etc. All voltages from reducer read 12.3 volts, 20 amp reducer, etc. And upon final button up, I smelled small electrical burn and saw smoke from controller box. Light kit functioned perfect and voltages were normal. I never touched controller box. Cart had been in tow entire time and key off since I parked it.
Opened controller box, and saw smoke from resistor between solenoid and it looked burnt. I had a spare stock one from a 2012, so I tried that one (not sure if direction matters or not) but put it on and reconnected positive (cart in TOW this entire time). Kept finger on resistor and within 10 seconds it began to heat up. To the point you could not hold it. Disconnected pack positive at that point. Read many posts on this topic, which I have read over the years too.
Next step was try a controller from a 2012 cart I had. Replaced 04 controller with 12 controller. Hooked back up correct. Reconnected pack positive, same issue and result. Resistor really hot quickly. Still in Tow and key off.
Took off pack positive. Next I disconnect A1 terminal at motor, and secured with zip tie to make sure no shorts. Reconnected pack positive. Same result (using 12 controller that was to my knowledge working though it was on shelf for a while).
So resistor is seemingly over heating. Could a short in the stock wiring harness for the light kit cause this issue perhaps? I am at a bit of a loss at the moment as to what to trouble shoot next.
Upon reconnecting pack voltage I show 50.7 volts at left solenoid (as if looking from front of solenoid as it’s mounted). Which is of course normal as this is voltage feed to controller. The right solenoid terminal shows .54 volts when pack connected.
Key is off and cart in tow during these tests. Would you be kind enough to offer some sage advice friends?
What information can I provide to help troubleshoot?

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

NoleFan4Ever

I wouldn't swap the controller again as that should be an IQ controller on the '04 and an I2/Excel controller on the '12.

Something is pulling a LOT of current after the solenoid as that is what's causing your resistor to get hot. Its purpose is to supply a low current charge to you capacitors in the controller. It cannot take much load and you definitely have a high load (demand) on it right now.

And I am sorry if I do not fully comprehend all of your post, but was this immediately after the converter installation or the light installation or both?

Htownblue

The first time I noticed the burn8ng smell was after the light kit/reducer/fuse install. I never even opened the controller box prior to install of light kit/reducer. Recducer wired from pack positive and Negative. All connections for reducer and fuse buss are insulated and conduit covered etc.

I’m trying to figure out what would cause the controller or something else to have a major draw on the solenoid with the cart in tow and key off. If the Solenoid somehow got welded shut, would a new one stop the issue? Would see so, since the issue seems to be a draw on the pack while the solenoid is shut.
Just a thought.
Nole, appreciate the feedback. Sorry about your boys versus the Zags. Rough game. Good season though.

NoleFan4Ever

I was glad they got this far.... Leonard Hamilton does a good job.

With the controller in Tow, there should be no draw on the controller as it is down.

Is this a Precedent or DS? (and the resistor is not directional, either way will resist flow.)

Htownblue

It’s a 04 precedent. And with it in Tow is what has me flipped as I know it shouldn’t draw anything from the controller side with it in Tow. Guess I need to look for a short maybe?

NoleFan4Ever

Here is the drawing for it. The Gray wire should be powering the controller, but not with the switch in Tow. But if there is a short somewhere it will still pull - Is there anything else (wiring) on the controller side of the main solenoid except the Yellow cable and resistor? Is there anything else connected at B+ except the Yellow cable from the solenoid and the Green A1 cable?

Attached Images

2004_Precedent_IQ.jpg (1.30 MB, 0 views)

Fairtax4me

Where did you connect the 48+ wire for the converter?
Where did you connect the 48- for converter?

If you unplug just the light kit, does the resistor stop heating up?

Htownblue

48 pos converter input connected to pack positive 50v supply at terminal. Converter negative/ground grounded to B-/10G negative headed to controller box etc.

Yes resistor heats up with or without reducer connected/on.

Htownblue

Let me double check everything. Thanks for the diagram. I’ll triple check and make sure it’s wired correctly.

Htownblue

So I triple checked just to make sure. Yellow from controller side post of solenoid goes from solenoid directly to B+ along with Green to A1. Motor connections wired correct per diagram. Nothing else connected to B+ other than yellow/green.