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Unread 06-12-2019, 08:57 PM   #61
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Default Re: Testing an FSIP controller

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Unread 06-12-2019, 08:57 PM   #62
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Default Re: Testing an FSIP controller

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Originally Posted by NCPW View Post
Yes, the A2 stud is going to the RC on the (+) side.

When the cables were disconnected; Since there was no continuity between B+ and M-, I connected the leads between B+ and A2 on the RC and there was continuity. Would that still complete the loop?
If I follow You correctly You tested continuity From Motor A1 to A2 directly and did not getting continuity?

Are you sure the Motor A2 and A1 are going to where you think? if so it looks like your Armature has no continuity.
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Unread 06-12-2019, 09:00 PM   #63
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Default Re: Testing an FSIP controller

Checking the Alltrax toolkit again; I notice when leaving my Fwd/Reverse switch in neutral (middle) I get full pack voltage to the motor instead of the 28v.
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Unread 06-12-2019, 09:01 PM   #64
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Default Re: Testing an FSIP controller

Please follow the cables from the Reversing Contatcor to the motor, they must not be going to where you think on the Motor.
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Unread 06-12-2019, 09:03 PM   #65
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Default Re: Testing an FSIP controller

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If I follow You correctly You tested continuity From Motor A1 to A2 directly and did not getting continuity?

Are you sure the Motor A2 and A1 are going to where you think? if so it looks like your Armature has no continuity.
Testing continuity between A1 and A2 I got a very low ohm read, less than 1ohm.

I physically traced all cables to there location with my hands to verify their position.
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Unread 06-12-2019, 09:09 PM   #66
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Default Re: Testing an FSIP controller

I thought You tested between the cable that was connected to B+ and the reversing contactor, not at the Controller B+

You cannot test continuity by connecting anything to the Controller as the voltage will interfere with any readings, that is why the cables have to be disconnected.

If The reversing contactor is working correctly, both sets of contacts on the bottom will be closed when in neutral and when you engage forward or reverse the energized side will open the bottom contacts and close the top one.

Once that happens there will be continuity between the Controller B+ and Controller M- which would make the voltage at M- leave the rail (1/2 voltage) and match the B+ voltage.

If You just disconnect those two cables and measure the continuity, it needs to be there or the Controller will not work.
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Unread 06-12-2019, 09:17 PM   #67
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Default Re: Testing an FSIP controller

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I thought You tested between the cable that was connected to B+ and the reversing contactor, not at the Controller B+

You cannot test continuity by connecting anything to the Controller as the voltage will interfere with any readings, that is why the cables have to be disconnected.

If The reversing contactor is working correctly, both sets of contacts on the bottom will be closed when in neutral and when you engage forward or reverse the energized side will open the bottom contacts and close the top one.

Once that happens there will be continuity between the Controller B+ and Controller M- which would make the voltage at M- leave the rail (1/2 voltage) and match the B+ voltage.

If You just disconnect those two cables and measure the continuity, it needs to be there or the Controller will not work.
Okay, now I'm getting a little confused.

When I tested continuity I tested at the B+ cable disconnected from the controller and the M- cable that was also disconnected from the controller. No resistance between them in fwd or reverse. Did I do that correctly?
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Unread 06-12-2019, 09:23 PM   #68
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Default Re: Testing an FSIP controller

Yes, and that shows the reversing contactor is not working.

Hit that contactor a few times with rubber mallet or wood handle and test again.
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Unread 06-12-2019, 09:27 PM   #69
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Default Re: Testing an FSIP controller

Okay, thank you Sergio for your patience with me.

I think I've only heard of 1 other SW202 failure on here; Do you know if they're rebuildable?
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Unread 06-12-2019, 09:31 PM   #70
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Default Re: Testing an FSIP controller

Some places sell rebuild kits, but it might just be a bug that crawled and died between the contacts.

Blow it with an air hose and a hit it with a wood handle to make sure the contacts settle.
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