1/2 speed not working on DS 99 with 1205-203 Curtis

voodoocr

Hi,

Recently got an FSI/Curtis 1205-203 controller to replace my 1204-410 which died. I now have no reverse at 1/2 speed !.

I checked wires to controller and have 5k (up pedal)to 0k (full throtlle) on throttle as expected for clubcar 99DS pot. then when I add the 1/2 speed resistor circuit as determined by the F/R switch in reverse I have 10K to 5K range which suggests the 1/2 speed resistor is being added to the circuit in series.

This is not what I want I believe and probably want 5k to 2.5K range when in reverse. (purple not connected to B- as it seems to interfere with operation). I have correct voltage of 4.6v on throttle up between B- and lower terminal In forward.

I have jumped green to white at microswitch 3 to give me full forward and reverse but this is not what I want because now my plug breaking is too violent and almost locks up the back wheels when I go into reverse to break electronically and apply the throttle forward.

I live in a very hilly place and having plug breaking will save me if I get runaway so I would like to make it work right. I have adjusted the pot on the controller for plug breaking to minimum but it's still too much and I guess the only hope is more gradual deceleration through smoother throttle control therefore I must fix 1/2 speed reverse throttle first.

any ideas on how solve this problem would be appreciated.!

BGW

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Sergio

Unless that controller offers the optional reduced reverse input quick connector T4, which I think only the "M" model does, it is a little tricky to use a micro switch to change a 5k-0Ω throttle into a 5k-2.5kΩ throttle.

I drew something on a piece of paper before (just for fun) for another member but I never posted since he had the correct T4 input in his Controller.

If Your controller does not have 4 quick terminals on the panel, the T4 is on the opposite side of the panel as the 3 for KSI and throttle, I will look for the sketch or do a new one, You will need to get a 2.5KΩ as well as use the 5.1kΩ resistor you already have to change the throttle.

Sergio

I found, I usually take pictures of these back of the napkin ideas.

You can use the existing 3-tab reverse micro switch and existing 5.1kΩ resistor if it is in good shape.

You will need to buy a 2.5kΩ x 1/2 watt resistor.

To buy online both online:

2.5kΩ Resistor

5.1kΩ Resistor

That wiring will convert the throttle from a 5k-0Ω to a 5k-2.5Ω signal when you switch to reverse.

Attached Images

Reduced_Speed_for_5K_0_Throttle.jpg (56.6 KB, 0 views)

Sergio

In reference to your comment about "plug breaking is too violent", the 1/2 speed setup should not affect that unless you are pressing the pedal all the way down.

Make sure You have the Controller B+ wired to Motor A1 and Controller A2 wired to Motor A2 so that the Controller can apply the plug brake correctly.

Also keep in mind that plug brake is the most inefficient type of brake as Your "Driving Voltage" applied by the pedal is added to the EMF generated by the cart pushing the Motor and the combined current is dissipated as heat by the Controller.

It is effective but if you use it very often check the Controller with a temp gun to make sure is not overheating.

voodoocr

looks like I'm not going to be able to use the wiring as standard I'm wired as per this diagram without the purple connected to B-.

Can you add the colors to your diagram if possible ?

thank you very much for your great diagram !

Attached Images

Screenshot_20190613-062504.jpg (86.6 KB, 0 views)

Sergio

In my diagram:

The throttle "High" is the Black wire.

The throttle "Wiper" is the Yellow wire.

The throttle "Low" is the purple wire and not used.

The micro-switch "com", "NC" and "NO" terminals are marked that way in your existing reverse switch.

The #2 and #3 switch outputs go to the Controller Terminals #2 and #3.

In the original wiring, the Yellow wire from the throttle goes to controller #3 so that needs to change.

The best way is to run two new 16ga wires from the controller to the FNR micro-switch.

Disconnect the existing yellow wire from Controller #3 and splice to one of the new wires that will go to the micro switch "com" terminal and one side of the 2.5kΩ resistor.

Connect the other new wire to Controller #3 and micro-switch "NC" terminal as well as the other side of the 2.5kΩ resistor.

The existing Green wire from Controller #2 will go to the micro-switch and connect to the 5.1kΩ resistor that goes to micro-switch "NO" terminal.

The existing Black wire from the throttle will get cut at the old resistor/white wire junction and will get spliced with the Green wire at the 5.1kΩ resistor that goes to micro-switch "NO" terminal.

The diagram you posted does not support "plug brake" so make sure You have the new Controller wired properly as I mentioned in the previous post or the Controller cannot modulate the "plug brake" current and will hard lock.

voodoocr

something like this ?

Attached Images

IMG_20190613_102026836.jpg (59.0 KB, 0 views)

Sergio

The wiring is correct, but the throttle internal diagram is wrong.

The Yellow wire is the wiper or movable part of the pot.

The Black wire is the fixed top of the pot.

You can redraw the inside of the pot but the wiring diagram as well as your resistance calculations are correct.

Keep in mind the Controller diagram you are using does not have an A2 terminal and it cannot do plug brake, make sure the new controller is properly wired with Controller B+ to Motor A1 and Controller A2 to Motor A2.

You just need to make sure the existing White cable from the FNR to Motor A2 goes to Controller A2 and a new 4ga cable goes from Controller A2 to Motor A2.

voodoocr

yes controller does have A2 post (unlike the diagram) and there is a wire to motor A2 which is working fine when I go into reverse toggle while moving forward and applying throttle.

I do understand that without the A2 hook ups the motor would be unhappy and damage could occur not to mention wheel lock !.

The cart is slowing down but just a bit too much which is the reason why I originally questioned the fact that my 1/2 speed reverse was full speed and needed sorting out .

hopefully when I make proper connections as described above by Sergio then I will have more gentle plug braking when going into reverse. I only intend on using plug braking as a last resort !.

Sergio

Please post an update when you are done, converting a 5kΩ-0 to a 5kΩ-2.5kΩ using the existing micro-switch and without losing the signal or causing acceleration during the transition is tricky.

Since folks in the future may reference this thread when trying something similar I wanted to make sure we mentioned the diagram You posted was not to be used for plug brake.

As You mentioned plug brake is very effective if You only need it occasionally.