Dead regen club cart

Ezgo321

It is a regen 2. rocker switch for F/R silver GE controller. I got the cart from a friend he said he had it at a shop and they told him it needed a controller. The battery’s are at 50v the charger worked. I bought a remanufactured controller. .Hook it up the cart does not move at all. I did test the motor before a ordered the controller and it worked. I just tried the obc bypass. The only time the backup buzzer makes noise is when I put a test light on the orange wire. The solenoid has power to both sides for some reason. Also power to both small blue wires. Power 50v on the A1 and A2 wires. I tried reading someone else post that was similar but some of my color codes were different. The throttle goes from 3.5 to 0 volts. Where should I go from here?

BGW

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twilliams81

Those carts had a multitude of issues which is why they were made only a short time. My suggestion would be to convert it over to an IQ system by replacing the main harness and controller. You’d have a better (and non-obsolete ) operating system which is also programable and a lot easier to diagnose issues.


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Fairtax4me

Possible you have a bad FnR switch. Should have a red wire with white strip in the center. Check it for 48V present when the key switch is on and the Tow/run switch in Run. You can jump the Red/white to either of the other two wires at the FnR switch, press the go pedal to get the throttle Microswitch to click and the solenoid should click On. I'd recommend having the rear wheels of the cart lifted off the ground for testing.

Which wires did you connect at the OBC?

Solenoid coil will show pack voltage on both sides if it has no ground connection through the controller. This is normal when the solenoid is Open or disengaged. When the controller provides ground for the Blue/White wire the voltage will go 0v on that wire. The controller has to have FnR input and Throttle input before it will provide ground to close the solenoid.

Make sure you have 48V reaching the FnR on the Red/white wire with Tow/Run switch in Run.
Find the Blue wire at the throttle box and check for 48V reaching there with Key On. Make sure the microswitch clicks and you get 48V through the switch to the purple wire. Also check the purple wire at the controller for 48V.


This should be the diagram for that cart. http://www.studmonkeyracing.com/forums/48vregen.jpg

NoleFan4Ever

I hate remanufactured controllers. You could be chasing a ghost, but we'll chase it with you.

I never heard you say the solenoid was clicking/closing? Is it? If so, what is the voltage between the large post of the solenoid before and then again after the click.

Ezgo321

I have 48v at the red-white wire on the forward and reverse switch. The switch seams to be working fine puts 48v to the blue one way then the white the other

The solenoid never clicks.

I have 48v at the blue wire at the pedal box

I jumped the blue and white wire to do the obc bypass

NoleFan4Ever

Lets test out the solenoid. (Cart jacked up, key on, rocker switch in Fwd, and pedal depressed)
At the solenoid small posts do the following:
1- Take your DVM and place the red lead on the solid blue wire and the black lead on the main pack negative. You should get 48vdc (If not, we lost the Pos Input)
2- Next, take your DVM and place the black lead on the blue/white stripe wire and the red lead on the main pack positive. You should get 48vdc (If not, we lost the Neg input)
If you are getting those then solenoid should be closing. If it is not, remove the wires from the 2 small posts and check the 2 posts resistance (ohms) across them. If none, the energizing coil is bad and the solenoid needs to be replaced. If the coil shows resistance, but the solenoid is not closing, tap on the side of it gently and see if it actuates, if it does not, then you will have to replace it. If you are getting those then solenoid should be closing and you should hear it click.

Ezgo321

Sorry I have been working crazy hours. I have 48v on the blue wire. I am not getting a ground to the blue/white wire. When I hook my voltmeter read to positive terminal black to blue and white stripe wire I get nothing

Fairtax4me

The controller may be not getting a proper input from somewhere.

Jack up the rear of the cart so the wheels are off the ground. Tow/ Run switch in Run, Key ON. Black meter lead on Pack Negative.
You should have 48V present on Pins 1 and 2 on the controller. Those wires are Red, and Orange with a White stripe.
Pins 4 and 5 should be a Blue wire and a White wire from the FnR switch. One should show 48V in F, the other 48v in R.
Pin 9 Purple wire, should show 48V when you press the throttle and the throttle switch clicks.

If you have all of those then you should have solenoid activation.
The only other option would be bad cables or poor connections at the controller terminals or battery terminals.
Otherwise, the controller is bad.

NoleFan4Ever

Also to satisfy the required permissive(s) to trigger the Neg from the controller is Pin #3 (Green/White wire) to be at pack voltage.

Ezgo321

The purple wire is and at 3v and stays there on or off the throttle. The green with the white does the same thing