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Unread 06-27-2019, 10:33 PM   #1
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Join Date: Jun 2019
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Default HOT Wires on FNR switch Series Cart

I just replaced my FNR switch last year and it looks brand new but the Blue and Orange wires on my switch are really hot - they are new cables also replaced last year - is there any upgrade or replacement on a Series Cart - it seems like such a weak link in the system - have a 04 Villager 8 Club Car with Jake lift but can't figure what the problem is if not the switch.
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Unread 06-28-2019, 12:23 AM   #2
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Default Re: HOT Wires on FNR switch Series Cart

F&R failure: As seen mostly in older 36v series carts. It is more common in 36v carts because the lower voltage causes the motor to draw more amperage.
Hills are a big factor because they make the motor work harder which pulls more amperage through the F&R switch. Other factors like bigger tires & added seating increase the amperage draw and ultimately the motor design and condition are big factors too.
Also driving habits are a factor. Slow driving pulls more amperage than a faster pace.
If you find you are replacing the F&R frequently then the motor may be wore out. Having it refreshed is one option. But replacing it with a better suited motor/controller combo and increasing operating voltage to 48v is the ultimate fix for the problem.

Copy and pasted from an email I sent to a member who contacted me about replacing his F&R repeatedly. I hope this helps.
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Unread 06-28-2019, 12:25 AM   #3
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Default Re: HOT Wires on FNR switch Series Cart

And another time I wrote >
There are a lot of influences to consider when the series F&R switch melts down. First is to understand why it got hot.
All of the amperage going from the battery pack to the motor goes through the F&R switch.
If the motor is drawing excessive amperage the switch can easily burn up or meltdown, 2 descriptions of the same problem.
Why would the motor draw excessive amperage. Here are a few reasons:
1. The cart is used in a manner which creates considerably more draw than a game of golf.
2. The cart is modified with big tires, rear seating, or hi speed gears but the motor is still stock.
3. The operating speed is slow for extended periods of time.
4. The cart is used for towing or dragging
5. The batteries are old, weak, or just not charged. Low voltage = high amperage.
If any of these conditions exist they must be addressed so the problem does not continue to plague the electronics.

Hopefully this will help you discover why your switch is melting.
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Unread 07-09-2019, 07:20 PM   #4
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Default new SW-182 and a little runaway

Thanks - I put in a SW-182 and things seem to be fine now - one thing happened that made me wonder - I had a kind of run a way cart situation on about the forth trip I made where I let off the pedal but the cart kept going - I stopped it with the brake then switched to reversed and it went in reversed slowly but without pressing the pedal - then I tried again and no issues - I was wondering on a brand new Sw-182 could there be something that stuck or the ALTRAX controller that I wired wrong causing this?

I put it away to charge and will drive again tomorrow to see if I can reproduce the problem
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