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Unread 06-07-2009, 03:27 PM   #1
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Default My Project Begins

I've spent days roaming this great forum and am ready to begin my speed project. Please see original specs below.

I've ordered #4 cable by the foot and will pick it up this week from a welding supply house which says I can get the lugs at NAPA. After much Google research, I plan to use solder instead of swedging.

I've also ordered an strong motor, high amp controller and high capacity solenoid from D & D which ships tomorrow. The controller is an Alltrax 500 amp model and D & D knows it is to replace the 2003 Club Car IQ stock Curtis controller.

I'm fairly sure the motor will be a simple bolt-on, but should I be worried about controller cable harness connections? I'll be phoning D & D early tomorrow to ask this question, but in the meanwhile, what do you guys think?

Photo of current setup follows:

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Unread 06-07-2009, 03:42 PM   #2
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Default Re: My Project Begins

On the link below, forget about doing the Speed Code 4. For me it only took $300 and I'm getting a constant 26.5 mph.

$300 to $400 and get 26 MPH
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Unread 06-07-2009, 04:52 PM   #3
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Default Re: My Project Begins

scubabud: Perhaps you posted in the wrong thread.

I am asking about controller connection compatibilities.

tnx/pjs
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Unread 06-07-2009, 05:04 PM   #4
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Default Re: My Project Begins

Quote:
Originally Posted by pjshane View Post
scubabud: Perhaps you posted in the wrong thread.

I am asking about controller connection compatibilities.

tnx/pjs
Sorry about that... I also read what you had at the bottom of your post about your cart and goal;

"2003 Club Car Electric 48v IQ system, 1.5-yr-old T875s, stock system so far except 205/50-10 rear wheels. 19 mph, but want 25+. Goal: Get speeding ticket on my community's 25 mph streets. "

As far as your questions both the motor and controller connection(s) will be easy. There might be one connection that you'll be leaving off since they won't be necessary any longer but the AllTrax directions should guide you along the way.

If the motor gives you trouble coming off from the housing use a rubber mallet and pound on the back side of the Motor, hitting towards the housing. That should help as well. Good luck with your build!!!
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Unread 06-07-2009, 05:42 PM   #5
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Default Re: My Project Begins

Thank you for the encouragement.

I'm also a little worried about handling the heavy motor. I expect it to weigh 50-60 pounds. Maybe I'll rig up some kind of cradle. My other idea is to remove the batteries and turn the cart over on it's left side so I can get a good grip on the motor and can see what I'm doing.

All my life I worried about project details and almost always found them easier than expected. rgds/pjs
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Unread 06-07-2009, 06:08 PM   #6
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Default Re: My Project Begins

Quote:
Originally Posted by pjshane View Post
Thank you for the encouragement.

I'm also a little worried about handling the heavy motor. I expect it to weigh 50-60 pounds. Maybe I'll rig up some kind of cradle. My other idea is to remove the batteries and turn the cart over on it's left side so I can get a good grip on the motor and can see what I'm doing.

All my life I worried about project details and almost always found them easier than expected. rgds/pjs
That means that you were thinking about all details ahead of time which is GOOD!

You are right about the motor, it's going to weigh an easy 50 lbs. I'm sure you will figure the best way to do the job. Maybe a couple of suggestions which I'm also sure you've thought about already... I'd jack your cart on the right side so that the motor would NOT slide off the shaft once loosened and when ready slide it off while holding the motor with both hands but have some sort of cushion right under it and a couple of inches away to catch it or a jack stand or rolling cart/stool directly underneath so as not to hurt yourself or the motor. Putting it back on you could place it on a rolling cart/stool or jack stand and try and match the motor shaft with the differential shaft, helping to take the weight off of your arms and giving you time to match the splines up.

Also here is a procedure on removing and installing your motor:

Put Tow/Run switch in Tow position
Locate and remove main negative lead from battery pack Locate and remove main positive lead from battery pack.
Make sure you write down where the 4 wires go that are currently on your motor. (could take picture to be sure)
Remove 4 wires on your current motor using 2 wrenches to make sure you don't spin contact terminals
Remove 3 bolts going from your motor to your case
Remove 1 bolt from motor hold down bracket, (larger bolt then the other three from case.)
Pull out old motor, being careful of its weight when it will drop, around 50 pounds.
(If old motor is stuck use rubber mallet on end of motor case and hit back of motor TOWARDS axle case to help loosen.)
Clean up inside of axle case and lightly lube shaft
Put new motor on shaft and slide to case Replace all bolts, do not over torque them.
(MAKE SURE motor is flush with case before bolting to case!)
Replace all wires back to original position using 2 wrenches to make sure you don't spin contact terminals.
Replace positive lead back to battery pack Replace negative lead back to battery pack Put Tow/Run switch back to run.
Get in your cart, hit the pedal a couple of times testing drive and reverse and your done.


Good luck again and you're right, it will be easier then what it seems.
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Unread 06-08-2009, 11:31 AM   #7
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Default Re: My Project Begins

One of the things which I find makes motor swaps easy is to take the upper access panel
Off and have a friend lift using the Handle from above while someone assist and guides
from below.

Good Luck
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Unread 06-14-2009, 01:12 PM   #8
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Default Re: My Project Begins

PROGRESS REPORT

Any advice is most welcome.

After difficulty getting the old motor off, I have the new D & D motor mounted using the #6 stock cables (for now). Wiring the motor seemed pretty straight forward and it is unlikely I made an error there.



I also have the new solenoid installed. I am a little unsure where the resister and diode go, but their connector eyes only fit one place. The instruction sheet said the diode's band should face the positive terminal. Please check photo below.



I'll test the installation thus far with the stock controller and cables. If that is successful, I'll install the 400 amp Alltex controller. If testing is not successful, I can double check the solenoid for wiring problems.

After all of the above is done, I'll replace all the big wires with #4 welding cables. I do not plan to replace the smaller wires.

Before reinstalling the batteries, I will power wash the cart throughout, top and bottom.
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Unread 06-14-2009, 04:46 PM   #9
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Default Re: My Project Begins

Oh, wow! This is one fast cart. I may install seat belts. Anybody done that?

So far everything worked first time. I still have the stock Curtis 250 amp controller. The #6 cables cables got warm during my short test ride.

Next stop, install the Alltrex 500 amp controller. I'm going to have to throttle the controller back some to stay safe.
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Unread 06-14-2009, 05:04 PM   #10
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Default Re: My Project Begins

come on and post some GPS readings will ya How fast before and after controller upgrade.??
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