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Unread 06-24-2009, 02:29 PM   #11
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Default Re: New Voltage Reducer Whistles

Installed new reducer - Reducer making noise
Installed new radio - Ground to the frame

As Old Mec states the reducer should NOT be making noise in the first place and if it's not feedback and is truly the reducer then you know you have a problem with it.

The frame grounding is either new from a fresh install of the radio or reducer or anything else that is new... or was there in the first place and you didn't know it. So assumning that it's from something new just installed disconnect all wires from the radio and test then disconnect all wires from the reducer then test. If still there then it was before and is most likely from your light package or horn if you have one.
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Unread 06-24-2009, 03:34 PM   #12
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Default Re: New Voltage Reducer Whistles

I do appreciate all the replies. Thanks!
I am leaning more in the direction of a defective reducer for the noise. I was wondering if the lights just drew too much power, but I didn't have any problems like that with the cheapy reducer I took out which was one that only used 2 batteries and put out a max 10 amp. This one uses whole battery pack and puts out 25 amps. I did buy it from a reputable dealer and they told me it had a one year warranty. They also said it would it big enough to power everything.......maybe they were just trying to make a sale?
Now I have gotten back to the basics, I took reducer and radio out of cart, I have the negative disconnected from my battery pack, the tow/run switch in tow, I put my meter on volts and touch the frame and the negative terminal where I unhooked the cable from. I get a reading of 2 volts. So something is pulling power....could it be OBC or controller, do they pull power even with tow/run in tow position? Next option is remove them and find out! Now since there is obviously a frame ground issue, could that have done something to the reducer to cause it to make this noise? I am not real knowledgable on these voltage reducers!
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Unread 06-24-2009, 04:15 PM   #13
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Default Re: New Voltage Reducer Whistles

Am I going crazy?
Decided to check continuity, I get nothing from disconnected negative cable to frame, now if I get a voltage reading from the battery to frame with cable diconnected, shouldn't I show continuity through negative cable and frame? Somebody please set me straight
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Unread 06-24-2009, 04:19 PM   #14
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Default Re: New Voltage Reducer Whistles

I have found that most electric carts have a ( small amount of a digital reading ) when you go from minus post on battery to frame. I cant explain why but it could be moisture in the air or? ( IF ITS A SMALL AMOUNT ) I wouldnt worry about it. When I first got my digital meter I ran into almost full pack voltage after having washed and cleaned the batterys? I hauled out my old reliable WW2 volt-amp anolog meter that I have used since 1946 and hooked it up in the same manner and got only a slight needle movement, so this confirmed that it shouldnt be a problem? After they dried out it dropped down so I never worried about it since.
I doubt that your old reducer with about 10 amps output was much above 10-12 amps as it would have burned out before this "OR DID IT"?? You said you wanted to add radio and extra LED lights so you went to a supposed 25 Amp unit. I hope you dont run into the problem that many do when hitting pedal your lights and radio etc does a BROWN OUT OR DOWN? This is a problem with using the battery pack and or 2 battery sourse to run extras? I have had FM and AM radio's and sound amps burn up because of LOW VOLTAGE? It can really get expensive to replace amps and CD players as well as AM-FM radios. I have been installing digital volt and digital amp meter on carts to monitor the condition and draw. I feel much more comfortable with that set up, BUT in my case I have seperate 12 volt battery for all my extras.
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Unread 06-24-2009, 07:03 PM   #15
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Default Re: New Voltage Reducer Whistles

So I am NOT going crazy?
I also tried a test light and got nothing from battery terminal to frame. So you think the reading I am getting should not harm anything? I spent countless hours trying to fix something that wasn't broken
I am a former auto mechanic and have a pretty good idea what is going on, I knew that my 10 amp reducer would not be sufficient to power my lights and radio, that is why I upgraded. No brown out. Now I just need to get back to the dealer with this reducer, maybe Friday..... I will update after switching it out. Thanks
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Unread 06-24-2009, 08:17 PM   #16
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Default Re: New Voltage Reducer Whistles

Quote:
Originally Posted by micks toy View Post
So I am NOT going crazy?
I also tried a test light and got nothing from battery terminal to frame. So you think the reading I am getting should not harm anything? I spent countless hours trying to fix something that wasn't broken
I am a former auto mechanic and have a pretty good idea what is going on, I knew that my 10 amp reducer would not be sufficient to power my lights and radio, that is why I upgraded.
This last test is the key. As long as the test lamp does not light there is no actual current, strictly stray voltage. This usually occurs because of dirty batteries, believe it or not. Batteries can get a thin film of acid on the outer cases from charging. This surface voltage can show up on a meter very easily, and if left unchecked can lead to short runtimes and pack life.

Keep them clean, neutralized, and dry. It's just good practice.
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Unread 06-24-2009, 10:35 PM   #17
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Default Re: New Voltage Reducer Whistles

Good advice, Thanks gornoman
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Unread 06-24-2009, 11:01 PM   #18
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Default Re: New Voltage Reducer Whistles

Does your cart have a plastic bucket where your batteries are mounted? The CC Precedent does and isolates the 4 batteries from any metal. Even the hold downs are plastic. Another thought on slight leakage getting to the frame is voltage coming from your motor which is attached to the axle, ubolts then the frame. That's the only factory part that carries any voltage and is also indirectly attached to the frame. That voltage is more then likely leakage from the controller to the motor.
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Unread 06-25-2009, 06:28 AM   #19
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Default Re: New Voltage Reducer Whistles

Scubabud,
No I do not have a plastic tray under my batteries. So if there is leakage from the controller to the motor is there anything that can be done about it or is there any need to do anything? Motor to axle, axle to ubolt, ubolt to leak spring then leafs have rubber grommets, even shocks have rubber grommets, the only thing that is actually connected to the frame in an indirect way would be the brake cables......It is an avenue worth looking in to, but it will have to wait until after work.
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Unread 06-25-2009, 06:57 AM   #20
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Default Re: New Voltage Reducer Whistles

Quote:
Originally Posted by micks toy View Post
Scubabud,
No I do not have a plastic tray under my batteries. So if there is leakage from the controller to the motor is there anything that can be done about it or is there any need to do anything? Motor to axle, axle to ubolt, ubolt to leak spring then leafs have rubber grommets, even shocks have rubber grommets, the only thing that is actually connected to the frame in an indirect way would be the brake cables......It is an avenue worth looking in to, but it will have to wait until after work.

Your right

Last night I thought about that and was going to add brake cables after thinking about the grommets as well but shut down the PC to hit the hay and figured to do it this morning. Mine does have a plastic bucket and when I tested it I have around 3 volts showing. I also tested across my battery tops, terminal to case both - then +, and no voltage whatsoever, (batteries only 7 months old.) So my thinking was with some voltage leaking from the controller to the motor then back up to the frame. Since yours does the same as mine and both IQ's who knows. I did disconnect my wiring harness for my horn and lights and no difference as far as those 3 volts. So who's first to try the brake cables for this theory?
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