New Voltage Reducer Whistles

micks toy

Hello, Newbie here looking for some advice.
I just installed a 25amp voltage reducer and it whistles. A little history, I had a small reducer before but upgraded to the 25 amp because I installed a radio. Most times when I turn the headlights lights on, the reducer will whistle (high pitch squeal). It does not do that with the radio or the under cart LED's. Could there be a problem with the new reducer? Not sure what to look for. Did not have this problem with old reducer. FYI cart is a 2004, 48 volt IQ CC DS. Any input will be appreciated, I'm kinda nervous about using any accessories until I know for sure if this is a problem or not.

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

OLD MEC

Are you sure its wired correctly? I am NO EXPERT on IQ carts but I seem to remember that there is some difference in how they are installed? I would unhook and wait for one of the "EXPERTS" to give you correct info.

motormouth27

There is a difference you have to reverse the wires on the reducer. I used to have a club car with alot done but I,m getting rid of it and buying an gas ez go.

OLD MEC

It could also be defective, if after making sure its installed correctly I would contact supplier for a replacement unit?

motormouth27

+1 it may be adefective reducer or a refurbished one

micks toy

Thanks for the replies. I spoke to the dealer I purchased it from and he explained the installation to me, pretty straight forward. There are four terminals, one is marked B+, One B-, and the other two are 12v+ and 12v-. It is a 48 to 12 reducer so it uses the whole battery pack. The dealer had no suggestions for the noise either. It does not make the noise when I run my radio or led lights, just my headlights. I thought maybe it could be something with the lights, so I removed the wiring harness, checked for damaged wires and found none so I reinstalled it. All connections are good. Now something new I found while playing with it today, my turn signals dont work. They used to before parking it parking it in October, but I am not sure if they did before removing harness. The bulbs illuminate when switch is turned on and get brighter when brake is applied, so they are getting power. I unplugged turn signal and still got the noise. It sounds more like the old cameras when you would turn the flash on and it would charge, if that makes any sense.

micks toy

Update
I fixed the turn signals, problem was in the switch from when I took it apart. The contact was turned. I stumbled across another issue, I am getting a reading on my multimeter when I touch the negative battery terminal and the frame. Guess I will spend the evening going through the wiring again

scubabud

The squealing is most likely coming from the radio speakers and now that you've installed the reducer you have negative to the frame so here are some suggestions:

First, back to basics...

To see if the noise is feedback through your radio speakers disconnect them and check for noise again.

Remove the reducer from the frame if it's touching it and see if the frame is no longer grounded. If it's still grounded remove the main - as well as the - 12 volt lead to see if your frame ground is gone. I have had my frame grounded by the turn signal switch as well and put electricians tape around the steering shaft when the clamp attached to eliminate that.

You have 2 wires that should connect directly to the main + and the main - of your battery pack, the B+ and B-.

The 12 volt + should NOT feed through your wiring harness and all ground leads of any items getting power from the reducer need to go back to the - 12 volt lead from that reducer, not your battery pack negative or any other - wire.

This is a start and hopefully the end as well. Good Luck

micks toy

Thanks,
I have taken the radio out of the cart for fear of damaging it. The noise is actually coming from the reducer itself. I removed the reducer from the frame and still made the noise and still get reading on my meter. I left meter hooked to the negative terminal and the other lead hooked to the frame....started moving wires around and unplugging and replugging all connections. Did not notice anything until I touched the solenoid, reading went way up. So I disconnected the negative battery cable (cart power and reducer), leaving the meter hooked to the battery terminal, discharged the controller and disconnected the solenoid. Meter still has a reading, even with negative disconnected. Now I am really confused! By the way, the tow run switch stays in the tow position except when I was testing the wiring, I would check it with it off and then on. When I put the stainless steel steering column cover on last year, I wrapped electrical tape on it before attaching the turn signal as well. Im giving up on this thing for the night!

OLD MEC

MICKS TOY- If the wiring is correct for your IQ cart, then I still say its a problem with reducer, and I would request a replacement.
Did you get it from a reliable dealer, and if so he should replace it with no questions asked?
Your radio and LED lights pull very little power, but your headlights will pull some where around 10-15 amps depending on type, and the your tail lights if not LED will pull another
2-4 amps. It almost sounds as if the reducer is not capable of that kind of amperage draw?
Too bad you didnt go with a seperate 12 volt battery and solve all your problems. I use a handicapped scooter battery that is small and can be mounted in any position because its sealed. I only charge mine twice a month with a cheap charger in a few hours.