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Unread 07-24-2009, 05:37 PM   #21
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Default Re: Upgraded and now problems

When you got the 55Volt reading was this while, or AFTER at least 1/2 hour unhooked from battery pack?
What style of speed control ( pedal control ) do you have and where is it located? 1995 had 2 different setups in 48 volts and 2 possible upgrades so need to narrow it down to address problem. There are V glide multi step ( black pie shaped unit between batterys with small resistors mounted on back side under drivers seat ), and a variable speed Potentiometer mounted under drivers floor boards. The first two are factory units as is the following single unit. Along with these there has been a newer stock potentiometer with upgrade to connect to same pedal linkage but mounted under passenger side floor boards, and now many are being changed over to Curtis PB6 that can be mounted in many locations which is NOT FACTORY. 1995-1996 were the transition years when a new owner was trying to upgrade and make a name for themselfs. They had a 36 volt V glide with resistors, a 48 volt with a different potentiometer and a extra solenoid with resistor mounted that acted as a charger if you were going down a hill with a toggle switch to select F&R. So you can see what confusion there can be in these years?
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Unread 07-24-2009, 05:45 PM   #22
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Default Re: Upgraded and now problems

Just put the meter on the pack again and its been off charger for over 24hrs and get 53.4 volts.
Its the model with the V glide and resistors on the back and its also a regular series car and not a regen or the kind with toggle or tow switch.

I was told when I ordered the parts since it had 3 wires on the factory controller RED/WHITE/BLACK it was I believe the 0-5k throttle system....I was given a GE series 500amp #583 controller 0-5k throttle controller also
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Unread 07-25-2009, 08:52 AM   #23
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Default Re: Upgraded and now problems

OK it sounds as though you have installed the new 0-5K ohm thottle controller unit and is it a curtis PB6? If you have did you checked the micro for correct operation ( turns on only after a little pedal downward movement ) and is whole unit installed so you get full travel without going beyond lever arc? They are setup so that you have to have a mechanical STOP just before bottoming out ( full throttle ) or it will damage the pot and ruin its operation. To check pot you should get a complete 0-5K ohms reading through total travel.
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Unread 07-25-2009, 08:55 AM   #24
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Default Re: Upgraded and now problems

I forgot to ask is the new D&D motor a TWO SPEED UNIT? If so have you added the extra solenoid that is needed in most cases to control speed switching? Having never done a wiring job on one before I am not well versed on operation but think another solenoid is needed?
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Unread 07-25-2009, 09:22 AM   #25
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Default Re: Upgraded and now problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lake Rider View Post
Just put the meter on the pack again and its been off charger for over 24hrs and get 53.4 volts.
Its the model with the V glide and resistors on the back and its also a regular series car and not a regen or the kind with toggle or tow switch.

I was told when I ordered the parts since it had 3 wires on the factory controller RED/WHITE/BLACK it was I believe the 0-5k throttle system....I was given a GE series 500amp #583 controller 0-5k throttle controller also


This could be your problem right here? I had asked earlier if you had checked the pot output and I think it is time to do so. Club Car used a 5K-0 pot and Ezgo etc, used the 0-5k. You should check the pot output and make sure it is the correct one for your controller. It doesn't really matter which one you use, so long as the controller and the pot are matched...... Remove the small black and white wires from the controller and connect the DVM leads to them. set the meter on OHMS and check the reading as you depress the peddle.
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Unread 07-25-2009, 09:25 AM   #26
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Default Re: Upgraded and now problems

Any chance they gave you the wrong controller? Factory Club Car is 5K-0 not 0-5K.
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Unread 07-25-2009, 09:31 AM   #27
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Default Re: Upgraded and now problems

Posting while drinking coffee and watching the news. Gonna have to get quicker to keep up on this forum!
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Unread 07-25-2009, 10:04 AM   #28
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Default Re: Upgraded and now problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb View Post
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This could be your problem right here? I had asked earlier if you had checked the pot output and I think it is time to do so. Club Car used a 5K-0 pot and Ezgo etc, used the 0-5k. You should check the pot output and make sure it is the correct one for your controller. It doesn't really matter which one you use, so long as the controller and the pot are matched...... Remove the small black and white wires from the controller and connect the DVM leads to them. set the meter on OHMS and check the reading as you depress the peddle.


Ohm meter reads 0-5.02k when the pedal is depressed and reading off the black and white leads. Checked it a few times and the same reading comes up.


OLD MEC
Its a single speed motor and its the 1-2 High Torque model.
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Unread 07-25-2009, 10:18 AM   #29
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Default Re: Upgraded and now problems

The main thing is when depressing the pedal does the meter show a slow even change from one end of scale to other-
EXAMPLE START 0 movement 0.5-1.-1.5-2.0-3.0-4.0-5.0 etc.
Thanks for motor info.
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Unread 07-25-2009, 11:02 AM   #30
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Default Re: Upgraded and now problems

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Originally Posted by OLD MEC View Post
The main thing is when depressing the pedal does the meter show a slow even change from one end of scale to other-
EXAMPLE START 0 movement 0.5-1.-1.5-2.0-3.0-4.0-5.0 etc.
Thanks for motor info.
It didnt the first time but after pushing the pedal quick down and up and then trying it again it read slowly up the scale. I wasnt sure if it was just me trying to keep good contact with the meters probes or not.
It did seem a little jumpy on low end though but read up the scale from 0-5k after that the next few times smoothly
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