Upgraded and now problems

Lake Rider

Just got done doing the following upgrades

New D&D Motor- 1-2 High Torque Motor
New GE series 500 amp Controller
New HD solenoid with upgraded Diode and Resistors IN5408 3A 1000V and a 470 Ohm 10 watt
HD 4 gauge complete wire set. All 13wires replaced with the HD ones.
Upgraded the F&R switch with heavier copper flats on the back to 1/4" stock and replaced all 3 microswitches.


Hooked them all up as they came off and hit the pedal and got nothing. Checked the voltage and got 49v. Plugged in the charger for awhile and it charged some but still no go.
Decided to jump the larger two terminals on solenoid and it sparked, solenoid clicked on and ran. It will do this as long as you use the pedal within a few moments of each other but if you stop and wait minute the solenoid kicks back off an no start/run again.

What would be the cause of this? Did I get a bad solenoid from the get go or should I look somewhere else. Is it possible its the wrong Diode or resistor creating to much resistance or not allowing the field to collapse. I double checked the wiring and except for the missing A2 white wire lug on controller it all went back the same. The missing A2 wire goes straight to the motor now as directed.

Was all ecited to get this going again and now its at a stand still again.

Only one worry I had was the wiring on the new solenoid went from the standard top connection to a side mount connections that was not the same as the old. I hooked it up with POS on the large terminal, yellow on first small, red and I believe black on the next small then yellow coming off the other large terminal. The diode has the stripe on the same side towards the POS feed wire. The resistor I dont think had special markins and went on just large term to large term.
When I do jump it and it runs it has some go power at first but then slows right down in the few feet I was able to try it.

Any help or hints would be greatly appreciated

BGW

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roady89

Its not the diode or resistor causing it or whatever you are reffereing to. You can try but thats not it. What doesn't make sense to me is you said "you jumped the 2 large posts and it clicked"....thats not supposed to happen. Something isn't wired right. Step away from it and take a break then go back later and check all your control wiring REAL good. You main batt wiring sounds fine because you say it did move.

Also, a diode is only supposed to go on one way....some people run them, some people don't. I don't, never had any issues.

Lake Rider

Yes its the large two solenoid posts that if jumped make the relay click and then the cart will move. I will check the wiring again and see if somethings wrong at all.
It didnt make sense to me that it clicked either as the smaller ones are what control the inner workings to pull the contacts together and not the direct path through with the large posts.

Does it matter what order the small posts are wired...yellow first one and then red and black on second or reverse with red/black first and then yellow.

The solenoid they sent us looks like this
https://www.cartszone.com/catalog/cart09/sol36.htm

Is there a way to check if its really a 48v version and not 36. Got me wondering now....

scottyb

This might be your problem
Most golf carts use red and black to denote pos and neg Check which of these three are what. Only one will be a neg only one will be a pos with the key on the other is looking for a pos feed.... Your solenoid sounds good but I wouldn't risk jumping it any more. Just sort it out. This is the problem area in my opinion. No it doesn't matter which sm terminal is pos or neg

Lake Rider

I`m a little confused if I`m looking at the posts or the wires for the POS and NEG feeds you mentioned. Like I mentioned the wires were paired right back together with the ones they came off of on the old solenoid when placing on the new one. The ring terminals prevented mixing them up from large posts to small posts. The small yellow wire was alone on the old so its alone on the new. They may be placed on in a different order since the new posts are side mounted and not top mounted like the old.... If I switch the locations of the small yellow wire and move it over to the location of the small Red and White/Black stripe wires and vice versa I cant jumper the large terminals and make the solenoid kick on.......

Is it possible the terminal may not be getting the POS/NEG fed it needs from possibly the V-Glide? I know when the other 95 we have here as reference since last night (Neighbors) clicks the Microswitch there it trips the solenoid on?? Could it also be a problem area to look at??

Its frustrating since I took pictures of everything before I took it apart for visual reference and wire placement and put them all back in the same place and now have a neighbors cart here to look at to double verify and its still a no go...

Here is a pic on how I have solenoid wired now.

OLD MEC

I had a vagily similiar problem with a new MEXICAN built WR solenoid that neighbor purchased and found that it was defective? One difference was that the mounting was at different angle and when we tried changing position it would some times work? If I turned key on and deprested pedal NOTHING, if I jumped large contacts it would operate BUT NOT GET ANY CLICK that I could hear. It could have been clicking BUT my hearing is not that good anymore SO??? I figured that some internal wiring was incorrectly hooked up and neighbor was able to return for a good one. New replacement was an oriental made one that acted funny at first as it would stay closed after first on cycle but after hitting with hammer handle its working OK for now at least?? As you can tell I'm not very happy with after market foreign parts anyway, and the more I see the more I dont want to use them. In most cases the parts are brought to me for installation and I just oversee the installation.

Lake Rider

I`ll play with its position today too and see if that may help...This one has a very strong click when it engages so I do hear it.
I went over the wiring again and it looks like they are all where they are supposed to be again.
This solenoid was sent to me sight unseen as well as the other parts from a site sponsor here.

Lake Rider

Got some reading so maybe someone can help out.

With meter and POS leed to pos battery post on bank of batteries and testing solenoid.
Wires are as in the picture I posted in this thread

leed to Red/White and black wire small post 52.6v
leed to yellow wire small post 52.6v
leed to Large yellow post 34.39v

With pedal pushed
leed to Red/White and black wire small post 42.0v
leed to yellow wire small post 52.6V
leed to Large yellow post 42.0V

Meter leed to Neg post and other leed to solenoid
leed to Red/White and black wire small post .46v
leed to yellow wire small post .46V
leed to Large yellow post 18.57V

leed to Red/White and black wire small post 11.8V
leed to yellow wire small post .86V
leed to Large yellow post 10.57V

Put the old solenoid on just to do a quick test and it won't engage either.

OLD MEC

Lake Rider-- Just a thought try taking solenoid loose from mounting position and see if that helps? I'm was thinking you might have an internal grounded wire to base causing ground to frame, but changing solenoid should have been fix?
Really I'm just shooting in the dark so bear with me????

Lake Rider

When I tried the old solenoid real quick with diodes and resistors in place it wouldnt even click the two pedal pushes I did. It was loose from the frame when I did it and not touching anything.
I did notice with the new resistor on new solenoid it gets extremely hot pretty quick and the carts not even running...Its hot enough you cant touch it.

I have traced all the lines back and checked connections, connectors, microswitch connections and etc so that anything that was moved or removed has been checked again and still no go.
I finally just disconnected the POS battery line and pushed it in the corner for now..