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Unread 07-30-2009, 03:58 PM   #1
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Default 2000 48V Club Car quit while running

My husband and I have read thru most of the posts here and checked out the diagrams and charts posted. Thanks so much for all of your help. My husband is my Mr. Fix It, but I think our golf cart has him stumped. We have a 2000 Club Car 48V cart. It matches the 95-03 48 volt electric club car wiring diagram in the stickies perfectly from what we can tell. My kids had an accident in it two years ago and we replaced the Multistep Potentometer and the Forw/Rev switch last year. The batteries are 3 years old, but after the kids' accident (they rolled it on it's side in a ditch coming too fast down a hill and two of the batteries went willy-nilly), we had checked everything out then and it's been running great. The kids got skinned up quite a bit but everyone was okay.

Two days ago, we were riding it down our driveway after riding around in it more that day and it just skipped a beat and quit. We had cleaned all the batteries, replaced the bad cables and added water and recharged the day before and it was running great. It does click when you press the pedal and the reverse buzzer sounds but no movement at all.

We don't have a voltmeter but will need to get one. Does anyone have any ideas of things we can check other than our voltage? The way it stopped it was like something jiggled loose but we have checked all the connections and everything is in order. We've also went back over the battery cables and batteries and everything is tip-top there too.

Thank you, Melisa and John
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Unread 08-01-2009, 10:13 PM   #2
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Default Re: 2000 48V Club Car quit while running

Just wanted to update....we got a voltmeter and checked all the batteries (they each showed 8.4) then on thru to the motor. We were getting 50.2 all the way thru. We questioned whether or not we should be getting 50.2 on both sides of the solenoid? We don't hear the solenoid clicking either. So we've ordered a new solenoid and will see if that fixes our problem. We are hoping it's not our OBC or controller, but have to start somewhere. We also tried the resetting the OBC steps that someone posted and that didn't help us. We took the solenoid out and looked inside but it seems to look okay as far as you can tell by looking.
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Unread 08-02-2009, 12:18 AM   #3
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Default Re: 2000 48V Club Car quit while running

If the solenoid has 50v present on both large terminals without the peddle being pressed and cart in gear then the solenoid is faulty. Although this would not lead to the cart not running by itself? are there any loose or melted wires around the V-glide? Have you removed the v-glide cover (3 clips)and inspected the copper contacts and wire connections?
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Unread 08-02-2009, 10:46 AM   #4
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Default Re: 2000 48V Club Car quit while running

Thanks, Scottyb. We haven't inspected the vglide yet. We can hear it moving when we press the pedal, but I know that doesn't mean it's not messed up. We had replaced the entire vglide assembly ($332.00) in Jan 2008 due to the kids' wreck had broken the screw tabs and our shoring it up with a block of wood wasn't working anymore. We don't see any melted wires on the outside of anything. We traced our wiring out and inspected all the wires and everything looks good for what we could see. We will get to checking out the vglide and see what's going on there. Thanks so much for your help.
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Unread 08-09-2009, 01:15 PM   #5
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Default Re: 2000 48V Club Car quit while running

Need some more help....(I bake a great pound cake if you're willing to trade info for cake!)) We got a new solenoid. Took out vglide, found that the brush arm with the black material covering on it's wiring had a cut in it, causing the copper wires inside to run across the nut inside the case, which looks like that's what caused the cut in the black covering. Also found a broken connector (had to look under the rubber connector coating to find it) on the green/white wire that goes from outside the vglide to the solenoid (seemed to change from green/white to a red wire by the wiring diagram) so it was red at the solenoid.

Now, with all that found and fixed....the solenoid click but the wheels do not turn (we have the rear of cart on blocks). We are getting a puzzling result at the controller while trying to do a test. The voltage drops off to 10 volts when the cart is on and in gear and the pedal is pressed. When we turn the key off, the voltage comes back up to 50V . Would this mean that our batteries are bad or have bad cells and can't hold power on load up, or does this mean we still have a short somewhere?

Thanks! Melisa and John
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Unread 08-09-2009, 02:08 PM   #6
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Default Re: 2000 48V Club Car quit while running

put your voltmeter across the whole battery pack and monitor voltage while doing the same test---if the voltage drops off, you know there is a bad apple in the bunch. Then you can put the meter on each individual battery and compare readings doing the test to determine which is lower than all the rest....this is of course if the pack voltage DOES drop in the first test. try that and post your findings
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Unread 08-09-2009, 02:23 PM   #7
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Default Re: 2000 48V Club Car quit while running

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbradley35 View Post
Need some more help....(I bake a great pound cake if you're willing to trade info for cake!)) We got a new solenoid. Took out vglide, found that the brush arm with the black material covering on it's wiring had a cut in it, causing the copper wires inside to run across the nut inside the case, which looks like that's what caused the cut in the black covering. Also found a broken connector (had to look under the rubber connector coating to find it) on the green/white wire that goes from outside the vglide to the solenoid (seemed to change from green/white to a red wire by the wiring diagram) so it was red at the solenoid.

Now, with all that found and fixed....the solenoid click but the wheels do not turn (we have the rear of cart on blocks). We are getting a puzzling result at the controller while trying to do a test. The voltage drops off to 10 volts when the cart is on and in gear and the pedal is pressed. When we turn the key off, the voltage comes back up to 50V . Would this mean that our batteries are bad or have bad cells and can't hold power on load up, or does this mean we still have a short somewhere?

Thanks! Melisa and John
Hey, John, this doesn't sound right usually green & white will be used for negative and red for positive... Trace these wires again. The red wire from the solenoid is power to the reverse buzzer?
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Unread 08-09-2009, 03:11 PM   #8
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Default Re: 2000 48V Club Car quit while running

Scottyb, you are right! Geez, I had a printout of the diagram and it was blurry and I wasn't at the cart when I typed this. The broken connector was a green/white wire that goes between vglide and F/R switch.

Upon going back out, now the cart runs! I think it's possessed. When I left it, it was still degrading voltage at the controller as we pressed the pedal but not turning the wheels. Now it's turning the wheels like a scalded dog on the blocks. We didn't change anything at all. The keyswitch was turned off and we'd come in for lunch. Now it's working???? I'm really stumped now. I jiggled all the wires around everything and it's still running. What in the world does this mean?

I busted the vglide case when taking out the batteries on that side, so we've got to order the bottom piece (with the copper keys and the brush arm). I've seen it for $56 but not sure what you get for that. The whole vglide is $250. I think all the parts are working so I'll just need the half of the case that bolts to the frame.

I'm about ready to go to a gas cart after all of this. But I'm really glad that the batteries seem to be okay and all the other expensive parts. The solenoid was $95 shipping and all, and now I figure the other one was okay, it was the vglide connections after all like Scottyb said.
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Unread 08-09-2009, 04:20 PM   #9
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Default Re: 2000 48V Club Car quit while running

dirty sticky microswitch??? started working when removing cover or working near??
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Unread 08-10-2009, 05:41 PM   #10
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Default Re: 2000 48V Club Car quit while running

Well, I had the vglide out and connected so we could manually move the arm and make sure it was operating correctly since where it got busted was the attach to the frame slots and it rocked too badly. The microswitch appeared to be very clean since it was enclosed. Even the ones on top of the F/R switch look good too, but who am I to say. I had reached in behind the F/R switch to check the white wire that goes to the motor and could have brushed against those. That's the only thing I had done between the bleeding power voltage readings, lunch, then it working. We use the cart on our farm of 34 acres, so dirt/dust is always a problem for sure. We've collected several limbs under the frame a bunch of times, but usually they were lowdown around the back wheels.

Thanks for the help
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