Voltage Converter on a Precedent Question

k-vegas

Hello again. I was in the process of installing my 25 amp voltage converter on the Precedent cart and got to wondering about something that I am sure someone here has the answer to.

Knowing that each positive lead for a 12 volt accessory would connect to the 12+ connection on the converter and likewise the negative lead for those same accessories would be connected to the 12- connection on the converter; what do I do about the factory light kit that uses the blue 12+ lead with the terminal connector from the #4 battery to connect into the in-line fuse and wiring harness?

Do I leave the lights on the single battery (don't want to), or do I need to trace and find the common negative and then re-route it to the converter?

If I am re-routing the common negative for the light wiring harness, any ideas on where to start in the harness to find the common negative at the farthest upstream point?

BGW

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k-vegas

Problem #2 - Where to put the !@#$%^ voltage converter. This honkin' thing is 7 3/4 inches long, 5 3/4 inches with the mounting ears and about 2 1/2 inches tall. It's a Red Hawk 36-48 volt to 12 volt DC converter.

Do I have overkill here? I am running lights, stereo, 12 volt power outlet and security system with plans for additional accent lighting.

There is no way I can get this in the battery compartment. I thought about mounting it in the center dash, but I have the dash cover. Will it overheat in there?

k-vegas

I went ahead and ran my primary wires from the battery pack to the dash and installed the converter in the center dash. I do not have any 12 volt connections hooked up to it yet, but since about 2 pm this afternoon, it has been connected to the batteries and only remains warm to the touch, but doesn't seem to be overbearingly hot inside the dash.

Wasn't too pleased about how it sparked and popped when I connected the negative to the #4 battery when I connected it, but is holding a pretty steady 12.35-12.43 volts since checking with the VM.

Still waiting on suggestions on the light set up. One thing to note, with the factory light kit, the lights currently will not work when the cart is in TOW mode. I am assumming this is because the common negative is being interrupted when it is switched from RUN to TOW.

carguy

Hi Gang,

I am going to have the same problem. I have the lights wired as per the instructions, and as soon as I get my converter installed I want to wire it to the converter, so it is running off the whole string, not just one battery.

I'm would say the blue wire will go to the 12V +, and then I will have to figure out which wire is the ground or 12V -, and wire that to the negative side of the converter.

Have Fun! Dave

k-vegas

In searching for information concerning the light kit hookup with a DC to DC converter in-line, I did find the following information:

Optional 48 Volt Installation (for vehicle with DC to DC converter)

1. Separate the voltage reducer disconnects in the light wire harness and install a 10 or 25 amp voltage reducer in the circuit. Mount the voltage reducer in the dash area or another area of your choice. The disconnects are in the wiring harness behind the dash cover.

2. Remove the seat bottom and the electronic component cover located between the batteries from the cart.
3. Locate the blue wire coming off the #1 battery positive connection and connect to the long lead of the fuse assembly. This pulls the entire DC voltage through the wiring harness from the battery pack to the wiring harness disconnect.
4. Locate the single 12 gauge blue wire with a spade terminal coming from the passenger side of the electronic component area and connect the short lead coming from the fuse assembly.
5. Secure all loose wires.
6. Install electronic component cover and you’re now ready to test your lights.

No mention here about the 12 VDC negative cable being connected to the voltage converter. Since I have primary wires from the battery pack to the voltage converter input, I will not be connecting the blue wire at the battery pack as indicated in step 3 above.

Also, as a follow up, I have seen in threads concerns about leaving the converter connected directly to the battery pack and some people installing a switch or connecting it to the main key switch so it's only on with the cart is on. I could do this, but still want to have the security system active all the time, even if the cart is in TOW mode. Anyone have suggestions or want to list the pros and cons of leaving he converter "hot" all the time?

Thanks!

carguy

I would like to have the cart disabled via the "tow" switch, but your correct, that would leave the converter w/out power.

Geez, what to do!

Guess it would be posible to have the converter on a hidden (or key type) switch so that when cart is in tow, 48V could still be going to the converter.
So the converter would be powered two ways, either thru the tow/run or the secret switch. Probably need to check a schematic to make sure the switch isn't "back feeding" the cart and MAYBE the cart would run even though it's in the tow position.

what to do, what to do


Dave

streetglide

My thoughts on "how, which and where".

I mounted the converter in a vertical position on an aluminum plate mounted to a vertical side of the angle aluminum frame.

The +48Vdc input wire to the converter was connected through a 50Vdc, 10A, combo toggle switch/breaker (mounted on the Tow/Run switch aluminum cover), to the +48Vdc terminal of the battery string (battery 1). Others have mounted the switch/breaker through the kick plate just beside the FWD/REV rocker switch. (You could substitute a 50Vdc toggle switch and a 10A fuse for the toggle/breaker combo)

The -48Vdc input should be connected to the main (-) battery lead (from battery 4, DS would be 6) on the terminal strip located AFTER the OBC (same location where the voltage reducer (if you had one) was connected. It is important that the slight current draw of the reducer (even with no load), flows through the current sensing device in the OBC.

Several ways to connect the output connections of the converter to the accessories. I chose to use two new terminal strips (one for positive connections and one for negatives). I ran the +12Vdc output wire of the converter to one strip where I had terminated all the individually fussed accessories (proper Amp rating for each). I then ran the -12Vdc output of the converter to the other strip and terminated all negative accessory connections there. One could do a master 12Vdc 25A fuse between the converter and the (+) strip AND/OR individual fuses as I did.

I leave the Tow/RUN switch in RUN unless I am doing maintenance on the electrical system, towing or pushing the cart, or storing the cart for a long period. I leave the Voltage Converter "ON" unless I am doing maintenance or storing for a long period (keeps "memory" lead from stereo connected to power as to not loose memory settings).

A couple suggestions/reminders: Be sure no common chassis connections through accessories (including mounting) or the wiring system. Also disconnect one of the battery jumpers during installation to avoid any sparking that could damage components during the install.

Above are my thoughts on the subject. If you disagree with them, don't use them. Just thought I would share.

carguy

streetglide -

where did you get the 50Vdc, 10 A combo toggle switch/breaker,

and the two terminal strips for the 12V output?

THANKS, Dave

streetglide

Hello Dave,
The toggle/breaker combo is a POTTER&BRUMF # W31X2M1G10. I believe I got it from downwind marine but someone told me that better prices through military surplus stores? I got the terminal strips from a local marine dealer ("The Shack" and places like that carry them). Hope that helps.

k-vegas

I ended up putting in a Blue Sea 5025 6 circuit fuse block with negative bus. Little on the pricy side, but everything is contained together for the 12 volt connections on the output side of the converter.