My resistor to controller conversion adventure

oxfordlawn

OK so after arc welding the VGlide one more time in the full throttle position...I figured it was time to install the controller thats been on the bench. I am trying something a little different though. I am going to try and mount the PB-6 under the front cowl and make it cable activated. I bought a universal car throttle cable kit which had all the cable ends needed for $12 on e-bay, and tonight started measuring the throw of the pb-6 and fabbing up some brackets. I started with the accelerator pedal bracket tonight...I needed to make it about 1/2 to 3/4 inches longer to get the travel correct, so I made an adjustable(by sliding it up and down) bracket and mounted it on the gas pedal using the original hardware that is there..Im doing this because I didn't like the way the metal linkages for the PB-6 I had seen fabbed up seemed to have so many pivoting points where play and slop could develop...so I decided to try something different. If I can't make it work, I know I can always fall back on plan B and do the usual hard linkages as per ScottyB's posts. Heres my starting attempt....
Throttle pedal arm/linkage extender
Attatching point from cable kit
Installed on pedal and you can see adjustment idea
PB-6 with cable end attatched and the end for the pedal side of cable

Its a start

BGW

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gornoman

I'm no expert, but one thing that jumps out at me is the friction inherrent in the cable casing. It's gonna take a large return spring to keep everything smooth. Good luck, but I smell trouble. My .02

oxfordlawn

Its only a 2' cable and I am keeping the original pedal return spring, and the PB-6 has a pretty hefty return spring as well. The cable will be in a pretty much straight line just running forward and up to the steering column support pieces..its a very straight run, and with the 2 return springs, 1 at each end, I don think(I say cautiously) the cable hanging up will be a problem. But I do appreciate and welcome the thoughts and comments..thank You.

A.D.

Hey oxford,

I thought about doing the same thing, but just make sure your lever on the accelerator is long enough to pull the PB-6 the full range of motion. When i fabbed mine it was roughly 2:1 ratio. i fabbed mine inside the seat well since i use mine for hunting and did not want anything hanging down under the cart to snag on anything. Good luck on the fab

oxfordlawn

As it sits in the above pictures...the amount of measured horizontal travel is equal to the amount of travel of the second hole position of the pb-6, where I have the cable end attatched in the picture of the pb-6. Also, the pedal extension piece is not hanging lower than the brake pedal crosss rod, which hangs pretty low off the frame. Again, keep the ideas and comments coming as this may work out well, or it may be a total bust. The work to be continued tonight.

scottyb

Warning: This post contains no inappropriate language.
Test the pb-6 for the amount of travel needed to achieve full output I is likely less than the total available
There may be more room for error than you realize

A.D.

I thought i measured my fab correctly but luckly there was room for modification after it was installed. Measure twice so you only install it once. Just at a glance it does not seem that there is enough travel, but i could be wrong. Not trying to dought your fabbing skills, just a heads up.

oxfordlawn

Good point Scotty so I just checked it. It reads 5.0K with still about an 1/8" before the arm hits the stop. At full throw it reads 5.24 which is almost another 1/4" travel up at the cable connection. I am leaving all sorts of adjusting room---the cable has adhustments at both ends, the piece I made for the pedal is adjustable...and chances are it will not work the first time around anyway Off to the garage I go

A.D.

good luck OX.

gornoman

Good luck, Ox. I DO want this to work for you, so, git'er done!